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Elevation: 2,300 ft 701 m
GPS: 41.2585, 0.93629
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 76,824 total · 432/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

Description Suggest change

The Village Crags are the various segments of the prominent cliffband that surrounds the picturesque mesa that supports the quaint village of Siurana. This clffband is sub-divided into nearly 20 distinct sectors, featuring around 300 or so high-quality routes, ranging in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.14c. The showpiece crag is Campi Qui Pugui, with its impressive collection of legendary pocket climbs from 5.11 to 5.14c. High quality testpieces can also be found at the nearby Ca La Boja, which features mostly shorter routes in the 5.12b to 5.13c range, and the aesthetic orange Rebotat Pinnacle, which holds a good collection of difficult endurance routes.

High quality moderates abound along the upper tier, at crags like the ultra-popular Melafots, L'Isabel, & La Trona. The rock on the upper tier is not as monolothic as at the more famous crags below, but the smooth yellow stone is quite solid, fun to climb, and a nice relief for fingertips worn raw from the sharp crimps found elsewhere.

Great moderates are also found on the more consolidated & aesthetic stone of the lower tier, at crags such as Marges Upper & Lower, Can Gan Dionis, & Tonigros. While all of the cliffs named above face more or less South, shade can be found in various nooks at the right time of day. If all day shade is required, Reserve India is the best option other than the Valley Crags, and offers a wide variety of grades. Can Ciriac gets afternoon shade, situated directly below the old Refugi.

Most of the cliffs tend to be vertical or close to it, with a few bulging roofs sprinkled in here and there. For overhanging routes, head to Campi, Ca La Boja, Rebotat Pinnacle, or the right end of the Melafots cliff. Slab enthusiasts won't want to miss Marges Upper or Can Gan Dionis.

Getting There Suggest change

All of the Village Crags are best approached from the large parking lot adjacent to the ruined castle at the East end of the hilltop village. Although a few crags are approached from the village itself, residents request that climbers park at the castle lot. This minor inconvenience adds no more than an extra minute of easy walking.

136 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Village Crags

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Ultima del 85
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Spit de Boira
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Viernes 13
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
Trigonometria
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Pixapins
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
Kagarro malababa
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 5
Massa Temps Sense Piano
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Gat Reggae
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 15
El Tiempo se ha Reido de Los que…
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Toca-me-la Sam
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Garbatx Despistax
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 4
Es algo
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 19
Delicatessan
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
S'ha de Badar
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 6
Anabolica
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ultima del 85 Marges Upper
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Spit de Boira Marges Upper
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Viernes 13 Melafots
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Trigonometria Melafots
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Pixapins Marges Lower
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Kagarro malababa Can Parasit
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Massa Temps Sense Piano Can Gan Dionis
 5
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gat Reggae Melafots
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
El Tiempo se ha Reido de Lo… Marges Upper
 15
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Toca-me-la Sam Campi Qui Pugui
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Garbatx Despistax Melafots
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Es algo Grau dels Massets > Esquerra
 4
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Delicatessan Campi Qui Pugui
 19
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
S'ha de Badar Can Gan Dionis
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Anabolica Campi Qui Pugui
 6
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Village Crags »

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