Melafots Rock Climbing

Melafots is Siurana's most popular warmup crag for good reason. For one, its possible to belay from your bivy sack, or while cooking breakfast, as many locals use this cliff as a campground. Second, this cliff offers a tremendous concentration of good moderate routes, a mere 30 seconds walk from the car. Fortunately the cliff's resemblance to the chossy yellow limestone found at several sub-par American venues is only superficial. The rock here is quite solid, and the smooth blocky texture can be quite a relief for raw tips. Must-do moderates include the angular "Trigonometria" (6a+/5.10c), the traversing "Gat Reggae" (6c/5.11b), and the intimidating crack-to-roof "Pizza de Pinya" (7a/5.11d).

Despite its reputation as a warmup crag, there are a number of more difficult lines, such as the neo-classic "Punyatera" (7c+/5.13a), that surmount a series of wave-like bulges at the far right end of the cliff. The left end of the cliff hosts an absurd number of ridiculous 15' tall bolted boulder problems. If nothing else, atleast these routes provide solace in the knowledge that not just Coloradans will bolt anything. All told the cliff hosts about 40 bolted lines, 25 of which could be considered routes, ranging from 5+ (5.10a) to 8b (5.13d), with the vast majority checking in under 5.12.

This cliff faces due South and basks in the sun from sunrise till just before sunset. This is an idyllic place to an enjoy a few easy pitches and watch the sunset.