Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Melafots

Barrufet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Del triangle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deshinibeix-te S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbatx Despistax S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gargamel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gat Reggae S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Llobato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punyetera S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trigonometria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tu No Melafots, Bou S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viernes 13 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yu Vea S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:

Description

Melafots is Siurana's most popular warmup crag for good reason. For one, its possible to belay from your bivy sack, or while cooking breakfast, as many locals use this cliff as a campground. Second, this cliff offers a tremendous concentration of good moderate routes, a mere 30 seconds walk from the car. Fortunately the cliff's resemblance to the chossy yellow limestone found at several sub-par American venues is only superficial. The rock here is quite solid, and the smooth blocky texture can be quite a relief for raw tips. Must-do moderates include the angular "Trigonometria" (6a+/5.10c), the traversing "Gat Reggae" (6c/5.11b), and the intimidating crack-to-roof "Pizza de Pinya" (7a/5.11d).

Despite its reputation as a warmup crag, there are a number of more difficult lines, such as the neo-classic "Punyatera" (7c+/5.13a), that surmount a series of wave-like bulges at the far right end of the cliff. The left end of the cliff hosts an absurd number of ridiculous 15' tall bolted boulder problems. If nothing else, atleast these routes provide solace in the knowledge that not just Coloradans will bolt anything. All told the cliff hosts about 40 bolted lines, 25 of which could be considered routes, ranging from 5+ (5.10a) to 8b (5.13d), with the vast majority checking in under 5.12.

This cliff faces due South and basks in the sun from sunrise till just before sunset. This is an idyllic place to an enjoy a few easy pitches and watch the sunset.

Getting There

Park at the castle, and follow the trail that begins from the SE corner of the parking lot for about 8 seconds to reach the cliff.

12 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Melafots Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments

More About Melafots

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Melafots (11)

Most Popular · Newest