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Routes in Melafots

Barrufet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Del triangle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deshinibeix-te S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbatx Despistax S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gargamel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gat Reggae S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Llobato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punyetera S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trigonometria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tu No Melafots, Bou S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viernes 13 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yu Vea S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 60 total · 1/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

This fun & challenging roof route features a series of strenuous roof problems split by great rests. The pretty orange stone is excellent, not the least bit sharp, and more solid than it looks.

Begin up on a ledge & complete a short, balancey boulder problem to a stance on the slab above. Work up and right to another stance below the crux bulge. Core-intesive moves work up & left over this bulge. Make a pumpy traverse back right across the lip to a big undercling & a strenuous rock-over move. Shake at the jutting flake, then traverse back left under the looming final roof. An unlikely hidden mono is the key to the pumpy jugs above.

Location

On the far right end of Melafots is a yellow wall with a bright-orange roof system about half way up. Above this roof is another roof system, with a more-horizontal, orange patch on the left end. Punyatera is the right-most of two routes that finish on this second orange roof.

Protection

~8 Bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.

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