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Routes in Melafots

Barrufet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Del triangle S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Deshinibeix-te S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Garbatx Despistax S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gargamel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gat Reggae S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Llobato S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Punyetera S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Trigonometria S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tu No Melafots, Bou S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Viernes 13 S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Yu Vea S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 73 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tim Heid on Mar 16, 2017
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

This awesome route hosts some seriously fun movement and follows a steep crack. Start by making some thuggy moves right off the ledge to a jug horizontal. Practically no feet can make clipping that first high bolt a bit challenging. Once clipped, pull a few easy moves to a second ledge and rest up, it's going to get pumpy quickly. Bust some really fun moves separated by great holds and clean falls. Clear the technical crux about halfway with some fancy footwork and interesting body positions. Drop in an overhanging finger lock and punch it through the steeps to better holds. You may wonder why there is a bolt 2 feet below the chains until you are there fighting hard to make that last few move! Make a big toss to the jug lip and clip the chains.

As you lower, enjoy the position and steepness of this great route!

Location

Left side of the crag. Looks for a vertical crack that widens and turns black towards the top. This route is to the right of the larger roof hand-crack..

Protection

bolts. Could use a stick clip for the first bolt, but it's much better without! 2 bolt anchor and ring on top.

Photos

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