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Routes in Marges Lower

Currupipi S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
No Dan Bolsa S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pixapins S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Description

Like its big brother up above, Can Marges Lower is an excellent warmup crag, offering a nice concentration of excellent moderates on a compact cliff. These routes will likely be vacant when Melafots is over-run, probably due to the epic 6 minute approach. The routes here are perhaps even better than those at Marges Upper, with mostly huge jugs on a substantially steeper wall. Some of the most enjoyable large pockets at Siurana can be found on classics like "Pixapins". There are approximately 15 routes at this small cliff, none steeper than vertical, and all in the 5.9 to 5.11 range. The tallest routes here are around 70 feet in height.

This cliff faces nearly East, and with a good assortment of tall trees at the base, this is one of the shady-est of the Village crags, making it a great choice on hotter days.

Getting There

The approach is a bit on the long side (5 minutes), but it follows a popular tourist trail, and its on the way to Campi, if you're going that way. From the southeast corner of the parking lot, follow the excellent flat trail near the edge of the cliff, heading east, below the yellow cliffs of Melafots, L'Isabel, Can Burdel & La Trona. Just after the trail passes directly below a jutting horizontal roof with some old aid bolts, the trail begins to descend along steep switchbacks. Can Marges Upper is the gray pocketed just East of the switchbacks, sitting a bit below the rest of the cliffline. COntinue down the switchbacks another 30 seconds or so, to a climber's trail that breaks off right. Follow the right fork to the West to arrive at the crag in about 15 seconds.

3 Total Climbs

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