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Routes in Marges Upper

Capitan capitruno S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Capritxo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cos que Cao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El tiempo se ha reido de los que no han venido S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Escuela de Calor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fletxa Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Osa Golosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MorrĂ³n y Cuenta Nueva S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parpelina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Passatemps S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spit de Boira S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ultima del 85 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Elevation: 2,350 ft
GPS: 41.261, 0.943 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,728 total · 16/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay
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Description

If you've made the mistake of arriving at Melafots before 9am and your desired warmup is still besieged by legions of snoozing Euros in bivy sacks (or you've made the mistake of arriving after 10am, and your desired warmup is besieged by legions of Euro topropers), just continue a few leisurely minutes to this unlikely crag, which, despite first glance, hosts some of the best 5.10s at Siurana. The compact gray slab first appears sharp & unappealing, but this wall features some amazing sinker pockets & huecos, and the rock is not as sharp as it looks. While all of the climbs are slabs, abundant features keep the climbing fun & make for good warmups. There are about 10 routes on this cliff, all ranging in grade from 5.9 to 5.11.

The cliff faces slightly more west than the other crags, so it doesn't receive sun quite as early in the morning. There are a few larger trees near the cliff so its possible for the belayer to scam some shade. At the right end of this cliff there is a signed boundary indicated a bird closure. Please do not climb to the right of this boundary.

Getting There

The approach is a bit on the long side (5 minutes), but it follows a popular tourist trail, and its on the way to Campi, if you're going that way. From the southeast corner of the parking lot, follow the excellent flat trail near the edge of the cliff, heading east, below the yellow cliffs of Melafots, L'Isabel, Can Burdel & La Trona. Just after the trail passes directly below a jutting horizontal roof with some old aid bolts, the trail begins to descend along steep switchbacks. Can Marges Upper is the gray pocketed just East of the switchbacks, sitting a bit below the rest of the cliffline.

12 Total Climbs

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