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Anabolica
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3.5 from 6 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 4,723 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009 |
Admins: | Jason Halladay, David Riley |
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Description
The premiere pitch at Siurana, and probably among the very best sport climbs in the world. This stellar route climbs a beautiful orange & black streak of amazing sinker pockets & is an absolute must-do for anyone capable of the grade.
Scramble up to the exposed ledge. There is a manky belay bolt here, but it makes a lot more sense to leave the belayer on the ground. Blast up the 105 degree orange panel, making huge moves between ergonomic pockets. The holds dwindle towards the looming black bulge. Catch your breath at a mediocre crimp, then tackle the dark crux bulge. Move left from the big pocket, traverse the rail, and execute an intimidating rock-over to establish on the headwall. Continue left to a good rest, then weave up the unparalleled black headwall on magnificent pockets.
Apparently there is a kneebar in the crux that drops the grade to 7c+
Scramble up to the exposed ledge. There is a manky belay bolt here, but it makes a lot more sense to leave the belayer on the ground. Blast up the 105 degree orange panel, making huge moves between ergonomic pockets. The holds dwindle towards the looming black bulge. Catch your breath at a mediocre crimp, then tackle the dark crux bulge. Move left from the big pocket, traverse the rail, and execute an intimidating rock-over to establish on the headwall. Continue left to a good rest, then weave up the unparalleled black headwall on magnificent pockets.
Apparently there is a kneebar in the crux that drops the grade to 7c+
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