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Routes in Campi Qui Pugui

Algo muy sucio S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Anabolica S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cleptomania S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Delicatessan S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El logurín S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rodriguez Y Rodriguez S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Saiko Dase S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Siouxie S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Toca-me-la Sam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triste Pesadilla S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,150 total, 32/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

The premiere pitch at Siurana, and probably among the very best sport climbs in the world. This stellar route climbs a beautiful orange & black streak of amazing sinker pockets & is an absolute must-do for anyone capable of the grade.

Scramble up to the exposed ledge. There is a manky belay bolt here, but it makes a lot more sense to leave the belayer on the ground. Blast up the 105 degree orange panel, making huge moves between ergonomic pockets. The holds dwindle towards the looming black bulge. Catch your breath at a mediocre crimp, then tackle the dark crux bulge. Move left from the big pocket, traverse the rail, and execute an intimidating rock-over to establish on the headwall. Continue left to a good rest, then weave up the unparalleled black headwall on magnificent pockets.

Apparently there is a kneebar in the crux that drops the grade to 7c+

Location

On the central, impressive wall of Campi, immediately right of "Mr. Checki", climbing an orange streak to a black bulge with a sickle-shaped rail just over the lip of the bulge.

Protection

Bolts to 2 BA. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

t.schwartz  
 
This route is past it's prime...VERY polished holds makes this route less then confidence inspiring. Jun 18, 2016
matakan  
if you go left to the rest, you are out of the route and you are not doing anabolica. We de locals know that, a lot of people go to the left climbing 7c+ just for fun we call it anabolinga 7c+. Oct 16, 2011