Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Can Gan Dionis

Massa Temps Sense Piano S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
S'ha de Badar S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 198 total, 2/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This leaning dihedral crack offers great stone and cerebral moves, but its not the sort of thing most folks would fly around the globe for. The climbing is characterized by challenging stemming, with a few harrowing palming moves. Unfortunately there are some reachy moves at the top that detract a bit from the experience.

Make easy runout moves to the first bolt, then move right to a tough bit around the 2nd bolt. A brief rest leads to some shallow pockets on the left face, then an insecure palming stretch just below the arching roof. Traverse left under the roof along a big horizontal rail, then work up the open book to a large pod. Make a huge span from the pod to reach easier ground.

Location

At the far right end of Can Gan Dionis, climbing the stunning orange left-facing dihedral.

Protection

Bolts to 2BA. The first bolt is rather high so a stick clip is advised.

Photos

0 Comments