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Routes in Marges Upper

Capitan capitruno S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Capritxo S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cos que Cao S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
El tiempo se ha reido de los que no han venido S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Escuela de Calor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fletxa Direct S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Osa Golosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
MorrĂ³n y Cuenta Nueva S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parpelina S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Passatemps S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spit de Boira S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ultima del 85 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 45 total, 2/month
Shared By: tscupp on May 5, 2016
Admins: Jason Halladay

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Description

Visually striking line that begs to be climbed. Steep for the grade at Siurana and is perhaps one of the most polished climbs you will come across. Begin under or just to the right of two pairs of shallow huecos. Find a way to pull off the ground and then make use of two underclings to reach some juggy sidepulls below the second bolt. After making the clip, enter the crux by deciding on your path left or right through either slopey crimps, monos, two finger pockets and some slick feet to get to easier ground above the third bolt. Juggy climbing above through 3 more bolts leads to a mantle and the chains

Location

On the far right end of Can Marges de Dalt. Pass on the slab climbs on the left and then take a trail back up towards the cliff. This is the middle of three obvious lines in orange pockety rock.

Protection

6 bolts + chains

Photos

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