Elevation: 2,250 ft
GPS: 41.259, 0.94 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,315 total · 10/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay

Description

Known mostly for its nice collection of moderate slab climbs, this hidden crag is a nice place to hide from the sun for a few hours during the mid-day heat. Although the approach trail for the popular crags to the East passes directly below the left half of the cliff, the right end is nestled on a cozy platform behind a detached pillar, seemingly worlds apart from the bustle below. A good collection of trees provides some intermittent shade on various routes, and the belay is almost always shady. Although there are routes on this cliff as hard as 7c+ (5.13a), most of the routes are 5.11 or below, slabby, and technical. The solitary exception is the highly-popular "Massa Temps Sense Piano", which climbs a steep arching crack in a dihedral.

In total, there are about 20 routes here, ranging in grade from 5+ (5.10-) to 7c+ (5.13a). Some of the harder lines are obviously drilled. The right end of the crag is pearched on a ledge, so use caution.

Getting There

From the castle parking lot, head East below Melafots for ~100 yds toa small cairn next to a pine tree. A green "T" spray-painted onto a boulder marks the exposed trail that heads directly down the cliff below. Scramble down the cliff, using chipped steps, in a westerly direction, for ~50 feet to a saddle between the main cliff & the large "Rebotat" pinnacle. Turn left at the saddle to head back East, down a steep trail of switchbacks through dense brush. Continue form the saddle for ~50 yds, passing a few steep downclimbs, until the trail arrives at a clearing and a gray slabby cliff. This is Can Gan Dionis.

2 Total Climbs

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