Elevation: 1,151 ft
GPS: 44.061, -73.664 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 46,324 total · 309/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer, Morgan Patterson

Description

Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.

Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).

Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.

Getting There

About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.

The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deadwater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 136
Bozeman Bullet
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 95
Space Cowboy
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 34
Buffalo Bob
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 82
Geronimo
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 18
Incognito
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 22
Warpath
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Sundance
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Sioux City Sarsaparilla
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 48
Tombstone
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 38
Reach For The Sky
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 11
Welcome To Deadwater
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 28
Desperado
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 20
WISWIG
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Crazy Horse
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bozeman Bullet Main Cliff
 136
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Space Cowboy Main Cliff
 95
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Buffalo Bob Right End
 34
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Geronimo Main Cliff
 82
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Incognito Left End
 18
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Good, The Bad, and The… Main Cliff
 42
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Warpath Main Cliff
 22
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Sundance Main Cliff
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sioux City Sarsaparilla Main Cliff
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Tombstone Main Cliff
 48
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Reach For The Sky Right End
 38
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Welcome To Deadwater Right End
 11
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Desperado Main Cliff
 28
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
WISWIG Left End
 20
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crazy Horse Main Cliff
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Deadwater »

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