Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Deadwater

Left End 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Main Cliff 11 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Right End 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Elevation: 1,151 ft
GPS: 44.061, -73.664 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

Description

Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.

Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).

Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.

Getting There

About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.

The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.

21 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Deadwater Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Deadwater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
More Classic Climbs in Deadwater »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
Empty
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Kurtz  
Do not take the faint trail marked by a small cairn about 40 feet left of the correct (and "distinct") trail which is currently marked by two large wood chunks. Sep 29, 2016
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
Everywhere else i looked at in chapel pond pass was totally soaked from rain last night and overcast drizzle today. Deadwater was almost totally dry! Made our day today. Sep 26, 2012

More About Deadwater

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New

All Photos Within Deadwater (30)

Most Popular · Newest