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Elevation: 1,151 ft
GPS: 44.06109, -73.66381
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 57,416 total · 317/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer

Description Suggest change

Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.

Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).

Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.

Getting There Suggest change

About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.

The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Deadwater Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Deadwater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 169
Bozeman Bullet
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 108
Space Cowboy
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 40
Buffalo Bob
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 95
Geronimo
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Incognito
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 49
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Sundance
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Warpath
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Tombstone
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 43
Reach For The Sky
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Desperado
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 11
Bandito
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Timedance
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 22
WISWIG
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
Crazy Horse
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bozeman Bullet Main Cliff
 169
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Space Cowboy Main Cliff
 108
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Buffalo Bob Right End
 40
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Geronimo Main Cliff
 95
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Incognito Left End
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Good, The Bad, and The… Main Cliff
 49
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sundance Main Cliff
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Warpath Main Cliff
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Tombstone Main Cliff
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Reach For The Sky Right End
 43
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Desperado Main Cliff
 31
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Bandito Main Cliff
 11
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Timedance Main Cliff
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
WISWIG Left End
 22
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Crazy Horse Main Cliff
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Deadwater »

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