Elevation: 1,151 ft
GPS: 44.061, -73.664 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,758 total · 175/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer
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Description

Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.

Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).

Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.

Getting There

About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.

The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Deadwater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 98
Bozeman Bullet
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 66
Space Cowboy
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Buffalo Bob
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Geronimo
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 15
Warpath
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Sundance
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
It's on Ya!
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
Tombstone
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 21
Desperado
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Welcome To Deadwater
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 8
Bandito
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
Crazy Horse
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bozeman Bullet Main Cliff
 98
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Space Cowboy Main Cliff
 66
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Buffalo Bob Right End
 12
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Geronimo Main Cliff
 58
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Good, The Bad, and The… Main Cliff
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Warpath Main Cliff
 15
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Sundance Main Cliff
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
It's on Ya! Main Cliff
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Tombstone Main Cliff
 32
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Desperado Main Cliff
 21
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Welcome To Deadwater Main Cliff
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bandito Main Cliff
 8
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Crazy Horse Main Cliff
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Deadwater »

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Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
Everywhere else i looked at in chapel pond pass was totally soaked from rain last night and overcast drizzle today. Deadwater was almost totally dry! Made our day today. Sep 26, 2012
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
Do not take the faint trail marked by a small cairn about 40 feet left of the correct (and "distinct") trail which is currently marked by two large wood chunks. Sep 29, 2016
A nice ,mostly quiet crag with an easy approach, its peacefulness is a nice change from the cliffs with noisy highways. Bozeman could be considered an ADK classic. Jul 13, 2018