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Routes in Main Cliff

Bandito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bozeman Bullet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desperado T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drifter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Geronimo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's on Ya! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Space Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Time Bomb T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tombstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warpath T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: 2002 Mark Meschinelli and Dave Hough
Page Views: 559 total · 6/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 10, 2011
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

A short and sustained finger crack with a flaring crux. Easily top-roped after leading Warpath , but a good challenging lead as well. Gear placements might be tricky in spots.

Clip the bolt up and right of the bolted belay. Follow the flake/incipient crack through a few short hand sections and past a dead tree stump to the leaning finger crack. Follow the incipient crack through the roof and up the face/seam/crack above until it is possible to step left to the anchor for Warpath.

Location

Start: On the Tombstone P1 ledge; see description for P1.
Descent: Rappel from bolted fixed anchor; a 70m rope makes it to the ground. Need confirmation on a 60m, anyone?

Protection

To BD #1 C4 size, possibly double fingers; 1 protection bolt, bolted fixed anchor

Photos

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Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
Just to note, Lawyer/Haas have it rated as 10d PG. I'm not certain why the PG. The gear is a bit tricky in spots, but I didn't really feel like I couldn't protect the climb at any point. However, at the hardest parts I was just pushing through, so maybe the gear isn't good there. I felt the distance between pieces was reasonable for G though. But feel to comment/correct. Jul 10, 2011
Jim Lawyer    
 
I think it's PG because of the pro difficulties at the start after the bolt -- you'll fall below the belay. I'd be happy with "G", though. Jul 12, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
Jim, that makes sense. I think I glossed over the opening moves in my memory. I remember that being a bit "in your face" now that you mention it. I knew I was probably not remembering something. Thanks for the reminder and all your hard work over the years. Jul 12, 2011
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.10c
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.10c
A 60m rope gets you to the ground. Be careful, it's close. I thought the gear was pretty straightforward and that 10+ is a bit generous. Worthwhile to climb if you're up on the ledge. Jul 15, 2014

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