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Routes in Main Cliff

Bandito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bozeman Bullet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desperado T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drifter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Geronimo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's on Ya! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Space Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Bomb T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tombstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warpath T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,860 total, 21/month
Shared By: Greg Kuchyt on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Steep crack climbing followed by an off-vertical technical face above.

Pitch 1 (5.9): Climb up to the lone bolt, and make the crux move across the face to the crack (protection) below the notch in the overhang. Pull through the overhang, on large features, and follow the line of weakness up to the two bolt belay.

Pitch 2 (5.10a): From the belay, move right, clip the bolt and then traverse under the bolt to the crack system. Climb the crack until it narrows off, and jog right past the "hollow sounding Tombstone flake" (Lawyer and Haas) and continue up the crack to a bulge with a pin. Pull through the bulge (crux) to a small stance and follow the crack to a bolt and continue face climbing, jogging right after the crack system runs out. Continue trending up and right, past two horizontals (poor pro) & some pockets, to the top.

Location

Start: Where the approach trail meets the main cliff. Look up about 10-15 feet for the lone bolt on the left side of the cliff before it becomes progressively dirtier.
Descent: Two rappels with a 60m rope.

Protection

Pitch 1: One bolt, two bolt anchor
Pitch 2: Two bolts, one pin, fixed anchor on a tree at top.
Single rack to 3".

Photos

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Jim Lawyer    
 
bingram: There *is* a bomber sling anchor on a tree, but perhaps not the tree you mention. Once you top out, walk back, scramble up a short slab, and locate a bomber sling anchor on a solid tree hidden by some branches. It's about 20' back from the top-out, and serves as the top anchor for belaying the follower. To rappel, simply use the Geronimo anchor, which is just over the lip (climber's) right of the top-out, and is easily reached from the top.

FYI: This is the same anchor setup for "The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly".

Since the top-out mantel is a cool part of the climbing on this route, I don't support adding a lower-off anchor before this. The aforementioned tree is a perfectly suited for top-belaying the follower. Additionally, a clip-in-style lowering anchor at this location isn't appropriate, as one cannot be lowered to the ground with a 70m rope. (The Geronimo anchor is suitable for rappelling with a 70m rope.)

In my opinion, part of the five-star experience is sitting on the clean top ledge and enjoying the view while I belay and watch my follower.

As you mention, the crag has many unnecessary pitons. Some of these have fallen out and not been replaced, as removable protection is often available. Jun 20, 2017
bingram  
I just did this climb and it is really good. So much variation is what makes it hard because you can't just dial in one style and go with the difficulty and it keeps giving. All the sudden there is a hand or arm jam and next there is finger lock on one side to two digit layback sequences. At the top are some pretty committing moves with gear at your feet for being done with the hard business. And you look at this tree and the path to it is covered in lichen so you assume that can't be the anchor. So you do the committing featured slab moves which just top out the goodness of the route and you are looking for a legit anchor.

My one issue and it is a huge issue to me and this route as a climb itself deserves all the 5 stars it gets, is the topo leads you to believe there is an anchor at the top and there is, the horrible tree mentioned by admin and msyefl. For the level of a. accepted bolts at the crag ie. the shuts on Bozeman, bolt on first pitch, random unnecessary piton which I protected above and below with actual gear, that tree is pretty sketch (looks like it is ready to die and not that big), b. can essentially only be gotten to from the top unless you take that covered up sketch lichen crack to the left and it is hidden between horrible sharp branches (cut my arms reaching in for the anchor) and c. really deflates how rewarded I felt for the onsite and route finding after you actually climbed all the business of the route d. when that tree dies and someone with it, you will be glad there is a fixed anchor to enjoy that wonderful route instead of d happening.

I think the route is stellar and deserves a real anchor set-up and I will personally donate to the person who can put the anchors up since I am rarely in the dacks from philly so nobody has to be as annoyed as I was dealing with the top debacle. Just slap some shuts or fat bolts at the top before topping out centered with the route. You contact me and I will personally send the requested anchor gear agreed upon.

God Bless Adirondack Climbing - Jun 19, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
I think this is one of the best routes of its grade in the region. It has excellent protection and varied climbing (jamming, laybacking, face climbing). I agree that the protection at the top is more spaced, but I find that I can pretty much place gear with my previous piece near my feet.

Note that the fixed anchor at the top is hidden under tree branches. It sits back pretty far and isn't great for rappelling. You can rappel with a single rope using the fixed anchor just over the edge climber's right of where you top out. Sep 2, 2015
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
Definitely trend right at the top, the pro is better. Apr 12, 2011
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Really good climb, with some nice splitter climbing - steep and sustained, with well protected tricky crux. One of my favorite pitches in the park. Apr 8, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
 
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
 
I'm not 100% sure why the pin is there on P2. I was able to get a solid micro-cam in the crack system to the left (a #4 WC Zero, purple Metolius size) essentially at the same place as the pin. I thought the protection up high after the bolt was not as good as I was hoping for. The terrain is easier, but the route finding was trickier for me. Jul 19, 2010