Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Steve Mergenthaler and Ed Palen, August 2002
Page Views: 2,007 total · 17/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

66 Opinions

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This route tackles the large, enticing corner atop the main terrace.

Climb the corner, passing a short, wide section (crux). Continue up the very featured corner to a small roof. Pass this on the right, continue climbing the corner until another, much larger roof at the top is reached. At this roof, it is easy to escape left to a set of drop-ins shared with "Geronimo", or one can making the exciting 20' traverse out right to the shared tree anchor with "Desperado" and "Crazy Horse".


The crack in the large right facing corner.


A standard rack with some extra, long runners.


Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
This is a really fun route. It was an exciting lead for me as the first of the day even though I had climbed it before. The traverse isn't as bad as it looks. Just stay calm and find ALL the available feet. Apr 3, 2012
I thought the route was good, but not nearly as good as it's companions on the Main Wall. The climbing is awkward, and the gear is not always easy to get. May 3, 2014
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Underrated climb. I've climbed this several times and always go to the left anchor, just seems like the more obvious finish unless you want to setup a TR on the 5.9 to the right. May 21, 2016
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
Nice climb! There's one runout section at the crux early on, otherwise I found the climbing easy and fairly well protected, especially at the roofs (there might be some sections with thinner protection later, but the climbing is easy).

This route takes plenty of pink tricams and grey (0.5) x4 cams, so bring extra if you can. Aug 7, 2017