Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bob Starinsky and Ed Palen, July 2002
Page Views: 4,431 total · 38/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

97 Opinions

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The face that makes up the left wall of the large, right-facing corner of "Space Cowboy".


A standard rack up to 2".


One of the most under-rated moderate face-climbs in the Adirondack Park. A true gem with stunning positioning, and equisite movement.

Start below the large, featured face and angle up past a piton, through a broken crack to a horizontal that leads to the arete. Gain the arete, and make use of the copious bread loaf holds littering the arete below the optional belay anchor at 60'.

Either lower from the first set of drop-ins, or continue for another 40 feet up and slight right into the steep and positive corner system leading to another set of drop-ins.
One of the best 5.6 pitchs in the greater Keene Valley region. Great rock, cool moves, awesome position for such a short route. Feb 24, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Ranks as one of the best 5.6 routes I've ever climbed. I had done North Country Club Crack the day before, and that had my vote only to be trumped 24 hours later. A couple of the moves are technical, at least not beginner's 5.6 stuff, but not physically demanding. Great combination of technicques and exposure make this a destination climb (and, again, ONLY a 5.6!).

There's a wasp nest in a crakc about 30 feet into the climb. If you're allergic you might want to consider climbing another route. 4 people climbed this while I was there and were entirely ignored by the wasps. Jun 7, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Excellent climb, and probably stout for the 5.6 leader. You can skip the first anchor and continue to the top anchor and then lower off in one pitch. Nov 21, 2011
Gary Jones
Cottonwood Heights, UT
Gary Jones   Cottonwood Heights, UT
Great climb,thought the first section up to the dropins was 5.6, then a little more difficult to the second. Great 5.6 lead Nov 17, 2012
Ben Brotelho
Albany, NY
Ben Brotelho   Albany, NY
Great route! I was going to lead it after my friend did today, but he encountered a hornet's nest about 5-10 feet below the first anchor, towards the arete on the left...so I took the top rope willingly. Sep 8, 2013
Dom R
Bend, OR
Dom R   Bend, OR
Super fun climbing with bomber stopper placements along the whole lower half. when going to the arete be sure to stay left on jugs, I went up into that right facing, small corner feature to the right of the blocky stuff and its a pretty balancey move to get back left with pro at your feet. If you're into that sort of thing though it makes for a fun variation. Apr 1, 2015
Stephen N
Pine Valley, CA
Stephen N   Pine Valley, CA
I highly recommend going to the upper drop-ins. The "Gunks like roof" is very fun and leads to more good rock with fun moves. May 25, 2016
Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.6 PG13
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.6 PG13
The start was surprisingly thin and runout, not much pro besides the piton. So as others mentioned, it might be pushing it for a beginning 5.6 leader..

But afterwards, the rest of the route is well protected and fun climbing. I only went to the first anchor. Aug 7, 2017