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Routes in Main Cliff

Bandito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bozeman Bullet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desperado T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drifter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Geronimo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's on Ya! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Space Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Bomb T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tombstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warpath T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ed Palen and Bob Starinsky, August, 2002
Page Views: 1,296 total, 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Sandbagged?--You be the judge.

Start by climbing up on good holds into the steep open book. Get your stemming legs primed, and tackle this sustained section of climbing passing two pins and two bolts. (Some say clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolt are a bit cruxy.)

Milk a good rest after exiting right around the corner, then continue up the large right-facing corner until it is possible to step left and finish through steep holds to the tree anchor.

Location

About 20' right of the large corner of "Space Cowboy", below a large open book that starts roughly 12 feet up.

Protection

A standard rack.

Photos

Mike Hazard
Ballston Lake, NY
  5.10b PG13
Mike Hazard   Ballston Lake, NY
  5.10b PG13
The guidebook only shows 1 pin on the topo - that being said, it is most definitely not G rated. Maybe there was another pin at some point? I led it today and would say it felt to be about 5.9R through there. Aug 20, 2017
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
The pin before the first bolt has fallen out, making this climb solidly R-rated until it's replaced. Jun 26, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Not as enjoyable as I hoped it would be from the ground!!! I think I did it the "way hard" way. Nov 21, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10-
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10-
Interesting climb. One of those "one way makes it feel 10-, every other way makes it feel way harder" type of climbs. Getting to the first bolt is unnerving in my mind, you are a ways above the second piton which doesn't look inspiring. The clip at the second bolt shouldn't be hard unless you are panicking trying to clip it out of the intended stance. Aug 8, 2011