Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ed Palen and Bob Starinsky, August, 2002
Page Views: 1,430 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Sandbagged?--You be the judge.

Start by climbing up on good holds into the steep open book. Get your stemming legs primed, and tackle this sustained section of climbing passing two pins and two bolts. (Some say clipping the 2nd and 3rd bolt are a bit cruxy.)

Milk a good rest after exiting right around the corner, then continue up the large right-facing corner until it is possible to step left and finish through steep holds to the tree anchor.

Location

About 20' right of the large corner of Space Cowboy, below a large open book that starts roughly 12 feet up.

Protection

A standard rack.

Photos

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10-
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10-
Interesting climb. One of those "one way makes it feel 10-, every other way makes it feel way harder" type of climbs. Getting to the first bolt is unnerving in my mind, you are a ways above the second piton which doesn't look inspiring. The clip at the second bolt shouldn't be hard unless you are panicking trying to clip it out of the intended stance. Aug 8, 2011
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Not as enjoyable as I hoped it would be from the ground!!! I think I did it the "way hard" way. Nov 21, 2011
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
The pin before the first bolt has fallen out, making this climb solidly R-rated until it's replaced. Jun 26, 2017
Mike Hazard
Ballston Lake, NY
  5.10b PG13
Mike Hazard   Ballston Lake, NY
  5.10b PG13
The guidebook only shows 1 pin on the topo - that being said, it is most definitely not G rated. Maybe there was another pin at some point? I led it today and would say it felt to be about 5.9R through there. Aug 20, 2017
mnjsan  
The fixed gear situation I encountered today was quite a bit different then what was described here and what seems to be described in the guidebook topo. Here is what I experienced. Make some bouldery moves and clip a bolt. Get established in the open book and clip a rather old piton. Then there are 3-4 more bolts as you make your way up the dihedral. The rest of the climb has 2 pitons but one is rather hard to find as it is in a mossy crack and both are unnecessary.

Name of the game here is stemming. Stem hard and it will feel like it is properly graded. Jul 28, 2018
Jim Lawyer    
 
As mnjsan noted, the fixed protection on this route has been updated. Several of critical pitons low on the route had fallen out; these have been replaced by the FA party with bolts. Aug 1, 2018