Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ed Palen and Mark Scott, August 2002
Page Views: 1,233 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

Some of the more interesting stemming on the cliff.

Start this route by fighting off the barndoor of a very tricky sequence in a corner/groove crack that leads to a welcomed stance at 50' below a steep, and tremendous finger crack. Work up this crack, mastering this stemming exercise, and gain the anchor.

Location

The 3rd dihedral right of the main corner. There is a low pin in the crack/groove that marks the beginning of the route. Also, on the left wall of that dihedral, there are 3 bolts that mark the beginning of the route "Time Bomb" (5.10d).

Protection

A standard rack with the addition of some RPs and a couple extra blue and green Aliens for the upper finger crack.

Photos

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Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Really fun climb. One awkward but well protected crux move, then a really fun corner up high. Apr 8, 2011
Drake Pregnall
Morehead, KY
Drake Pregnall   Morehead, KY
After pulling the hard moves at the bottom, be sure to sew up the crack. This is not for safety, as the climbing is not super hard and there are pitons, but as you climb higher, the rope is prone to being sucked into the crack to the point that upward progress is impossible. putting an extra smallish cam or two in down low can save you having to bail off this great climb before the beautiful high finger crack. Mar 25, 2012
Oakcy  
The pin at 30 feet has gone missing. Still protects just fine with tcu or passive pro. Sep 5, 2017