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Routes in Main Cliff

Bandito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bozeman Bullet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desperado T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drifter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Geronimo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's on Ya! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Space Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Bomb T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tombstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warpath T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Stephen Mergenthaler, Ed Palen, Bob Starinsky Sept. 2003
Page Views: 1,568 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Mar 13, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

49 Opinions

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A deceptively tricky off-width just right of the clean Bozeman Bullet face.

Climb up, and through the tenuous off-width, clipping 2 bolts. Gain access to the ledge below the steep right-facing corner. Climb this, then head up and right to another steep corner. Use large incut buckets, and surprisingly good feet to gain access to the upper face. Continue to the top and shared anchor with Bozeman Bullet.


The all-too-obvious off-width to the right of Bozeman Bullet.


Standard rack up to #3.


- No Photos -
Dom R
Ouray, Colorado
Dom R   Ouray, Colorado
The 5.9 variation is the way to do this. Like Nick said, it's really just one move. I have larger hands and found it to be a thin hands pull, but you can chock your first knuckle in there up high and it's so good. I find this easier than other 9's in the park. If you use the small foot on the right side of the roof (the flake-ish one) my follower broke it off today on accident. I took a second lap up it to see how it felt without it and I didn't notice too much of a difference. Apr 9, 2016
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
To my understanding....The variation to Geronimo just makes an exposed move right into the right hand crack once above the roof and goes at 5.9. The route Drifter is an R rated(because the face below) route that pulls into that same crack but through the roof from below. This thread is a bit confusing as to which move we are taking about. Jun 21, 2013
Dryden, NY
PeterW   Dryden, NY
I'd say the roof variation goes at a pumpy 9+ Jun 10, 2013
My hands are larger, so it took some fiddling to get a jam (sort of a thumb cam?) I felt solid on in the high crux bulge on the main route.
? Harder than 5.8 ? I'd say either you can get a jam with your right hand solid enough to hold you for a moment on the overhang while you grab with your left -- or you cannot. If you cannot, then I guess it's way harder than 5.8 (? or you just stick a cam into the crack higher up and grab its sling ?) Jul 27, 2012
San Pedro, California
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
having a four and a five C4 arent necessary but its fun to use them on this climb. Jul 12, 2012
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Its easier (for me) than the roof on Moby Grape(5.8). Perfect hands with a sinker constriction once you pull it that is super secure. But I have relatively small hands. Nov 21, 2011
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
Did the 5.8 roof crack, and the moves are pretty stiff. Thinking more like 5.8+, and the lead who climbed through the 5.9 variation thought it was much tougher (like 5.10-something). Jun 5, 2011
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Definitely do the 5.9 handcrack through the roof to the right. Better finish, well protected, and really just one move. Apr 8, 2011
John Richardson
Greenfield, Ma
John Richardson   Greenfield, Ma
skip the two bolts with your #5 and #6 C4's :-) Apr 3, 2011
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
There is a fun variation to this route that takes the hand crack through the obvious roof to the right of the ledge 2/3 of the way up. The Lawyer/Haas book has this at 5.9, but for me it felt harder as the described "perfect hand crack" ended up being a weird size for my hands. Bring #1 and #2 C4 size pieces for the roof crack. Mar 22, 2010