All Locations > New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champla… > Deadwater > Main Cliff

The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly

Name: The Good, The Bad, and The Ugly
Rating: 3.1

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Main Cliff

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bandito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Bozeman Bullet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Desperado T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Drifter T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Geronimo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Once Upon a Climb in the Northeast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Ricochet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Sioux City Sarsaparilla T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Space Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Sundance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Time Bomb T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Timedance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Tombstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Warpath T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	2,753 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Benjamin Brooke on Sep 26, 2012 · Updates
Admins:	Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Same Start as Warpath. Head straight up through a roof to the base of a 4 inch OW crack. Climb the bolt protected crack (or bring big cams)making a tricky mantle to the top of a free standing pillar. Another tricky move leads to a piton and sustained jug hauling to a tree (no longer safe to belay from). Continue past tree through cracks to the top another 20 feet. Making way to a new anchor atop Tombstone. Its a fun route and has a few committing but well protected moves. Decent: Use the drop ins for Geronimo and rap the huge right facing corner with a singe rope, or use the new anchor and take 2 rappels to the base of Tombstone with a single rope.

Location

Same start as Bozeman Bullet. There is cord on a tree 3/4 of the way up the route. Optional belay. Rap same as Bozeman.

Protection

There is a fixed pin once you pull around the arete at the start. There are two bolts next to the OW crack. Large cams could be used instead BD #4,#5. Gear to #3 is useful. Another fixed pin after OW pinches shut.