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Routes in Main Cliff

Bandito T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bozeman Bullet T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crazy Horse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desperado T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drifter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Geronimo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Good, The Bad, and The Ugly, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It's on Ya! S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Space Cowboy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Time Bomb T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tombstone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warpath T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,023 total, 16/month
Shared By: Benjaminadk on Sep 26, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Pull left around the arete to a stance already 50 feet of the deck. Foot traverse left and move up to the base of a 4 inch OW crack. Climb the bolt protected crack (or bring big cams)making a tricky mantle to the top of a free standing pillar. Another tricky move leads to a piton and sustained jug hauling to an optional belay/rap at a tree. Continue past tree through cracks to the top another 20 feet. Making way to the high anchor of Bozeman Bullet. Its a fun route and has a few committing but well protected moves.

Location

Same start as Bozeman Bullet. There is cord on a tree 3/4 of the way up the route. Optional belay. Rap same as Bozeman.

Protection

There is a fixed pin once you pull around the arete at the start. There are two bolts next to the OW crack. Large cams could be used instead BD #4,#5. Gear to #3 is useful. Another fixed pin after OW pinches shut.

Photos

Nolan Huther
Clarkson University
Nolan Huther   Clarkson University
There was a wasps nest in a crack next to the bottom of the offwidth on 8/6/2017 Aug 7, 2017
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Definitely do this route from the bottom. Belay from the tat anchor on the big tree up and left of the top-out. If you're using a single 60m rope, rapp off the Bozeman Bullet drop-ins just below the top-out on the right. Sep 29, 2016
Another vote for doing it "from the base". A long pitch with varied climbing and numerous challenges. Reminiscent of the Gunks' "Last Will be First" (though harder of course).

There was no sling on the tree 20' down from the top (nor should there be IMO) today, but a 70m rope from the hemlock atop the route got us down to the base of Bozeman Bullet. There was enough extra rope that I suspect a 60m rope would suffice. Aug 26, 2016
Francis QC
Montreal
  5.8
Francis QC   Montreal
  5.8
Take a lot of runners or alpine quickdraws to reduce drag, with the small roof and the several ledges along the way it becomes pretty hard to clip in the last section.

If you do the variation from lower ground before the stairs, the length of the route is a little less than 40 meters. A belay on the tree waits for you at the very top ledge, rappel on the face of Bozeman Bullet. Apr 13, 2015
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Yes, I would agree. Begin this route from the ground just before the trail heads uphill to the climbs to the right. Makes it a full length more aesthetic line and a quality pitch. The roof looks harder than it is and protects very well. Then the upper climbing is really fun. Aug 28, 2014
KVRob
 
KVRob  
 
Starting this route with the variation listed in the guidebook seems the best way. It is is the logical line, and adds a good bit of climbing. Getting to the overhang is fairly mellow, and the climbing over the hang is deceptively easy on bomber holds with great gear. It deposits you at the base of the off width. Really good climbing. I would add another half star to this. May 3, 2014