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Deadwater

New York > Adirondacks > A: Lake Champlain Region

Description

Deadwater is a somewhat sleepy crag discovered in 2001 by local guide, Ed Palen. The cliff holds a very nice selection of routes mainly in the 5.7 to 5.10 range. The crag consists of three distinct walls: The left end, main cliff, and right end. The climbing here varies from vertical to overhanging face-climbing to technical crack and corner climbs. All routes protect wonderfully, and, thanks to the steadfast efforts by the progenitors of this cliff, each route is equipped with its own anchor. Despite the existence of anchors atop each route, it is nearly impossible to get to the top of the cliff without leading a route. Therefore, THIS IS NOT A TOP-ROPING AREA.

Area highlights include "Bozeman Bullet" (5.6), "Space Cowboy" (5.7), "Tombstone" (5.10a), and "Reach For The Sky" (5.10b).

Much effort has been made to keep erosion at bay. Steps and terraces have been built, and careful trail maintenance will hopefully keep the impact of increased traffic to a minimum. With the exception of the large terrace below the "Space Cowboy" corner, most of the cliff base has the tendancy to get cramped, so please be courteous and thoughtful of others. Enjoy this hidden gem, and please leave it as you found it.

Getting There

About 1.3 miles south of I-87 exit 30 on Route 9 is a large pullout on the east (left) side of the road. Park here, cross the road, and head north on the shoulder until a small, but very distinct trail leaves the shoulder of the road and heads into the woods. Follow the trail through a very nice birch and pine forest for about 5 minutes until you reach the cliff.

The main cliff and right end are accessed by way of this main trail, while the left end follows a faint, often overlooked trail that leaves the main trail about midway to the cliff at a felled birch tree.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Deadwater Main Face through the trees
[Hide Photo] Deadwater Main Face through the trees
Watch out for these on the road!  We saw a couple live ones and at least 1 crushed one.
[Hide Photo] Watch out for these on the road! We saw a couple live ones and at least 1 crushed one.
Adk feel on the approach
[Hide Photo] Adk feel on the approach

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Benjamin Brooke
San Pedro, CA
[Hide Comment] Everywhere else i looked at in chapel pond pass was totally soaked from rain last night and overcast drizzle today. Deadwater was almost totally dry! Made our day today. Sep 26, 2012
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Do not take the faint trail marked by a small cairn about 40 feet left of the correct (and "distinct") trail which is currently marked by two large wood chunks. Sep 29, 2016
Ian Dibbs
Lake Placid
[Hide Comment] A nice ,mostly quiet crag with an easy approach, its peacefulness is a nice change from the cliffs with noisy highways. Bozeman could be considered an ADK classic. Jul 13, 2018
Ira OMC
Hardwick, VT , Bisbee, AZ
[Hide Comment] Keep an eye out for rattlesnakes! Found a baby timber rattler in a finger crack. Also, a big scary spider. And wasps. Great climbing though! Jul 4, 2023