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Routes in Right End

Buffalo Bob T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Festus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reach For The Sky T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Ed Palen and Dennis Harrington 2002
Page Views: 258 total · 2/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on May 28, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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20 Opinions

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Description

A tremendouse gear route on an unlikely face that climbs like a steep, sport climb.

Climb the first 10' of the often wet corner ("Buffalo Bob") placing a key 3" piece. Traverse right about 8 feet when large incuts appear. Gain a nice foot ledge, and rest.

Continue up the face, passing a pin in a crack that breaks a steep bulge (crux--reachy). Move quickly up to a welcomed stance, trend left then back right, and finish up steep rock to a set of drop-ins.

Location

The face just to the right of the obvious splitter handcrack of "Buffalo Bob".

Protection

Small gear, plus one ea. of 1"-3".

Photos

Jim Lawyer    
 
I absolutely love this route.

As of the fall 2017, I understand there are some wasps nests. Argh! Oct 8, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
5.9+
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
5.9+
This is a steep, exciting and well protected gem of a climb that is uncharacteristic of adirondack climbing. Its a little pumpy, but no move is super hard. The corner can be kind of heady when its wet and slimey, but there's abundant gear through that section, so its still very much worth doing even if the start is wet. Nov 11, 2011
Derek Doucet
  5.9+
Derek Doucet  
  5.9+
Very fun gear protected jug hauling on a nice steep wall! Jul 19, 2010
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
  5.10-
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
  5.10-
The crux is definitely reachy, but it is pretty short lived. In all, I thought this is soft for 10b, but I think I was aided by being of average height. The hard part in my mind was some of the gear was tricky (lobe orientation, etc.) May 18, 2010