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Routes in Left End

Cowpoke Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dig It T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Incognito T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
WISWIG T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
hoedown T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Stephen Mergenthaler, Michelle Berrus, & Royce Van Evera July 27, 2007
Page Views: 221 total, 2/month
Shared By: Chris Duca on Mar 13, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Very few routes in the Dacks rival the clean and sustained climbing present here. WISWIG combines well-protected face climbing with sustained and technical tic-tac smearing up gritty, off-vertical stone.

Start on the arete just left of the obvious chimney route (Cowpoke Chimney--5.7). Clip the first two bolts from relatively comfortable stances, then move out onto the face for the remainder of the route, getting a couple of so-so rests along the way, while hugging your way up thin seams and dime edges. Phenomenal!!

(Note: The crack between the 7th bolt and the anchor can be protected with a #2 Camalot; however, if you want to keep the grade consistantly 5.11a (and not drop it to 5.6), move right onto the face, clip the bolts and finish with a few moves that require nothing short of swearing magic and levitation.)

Location

On the clean, off-vertical face with left-leaning seams about a five minute walk to the left of the Main Face.

Protection

Draws, and a .5 Camalot between the 5th and 6th bolt (cruxy!!). 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
  5.10c
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
  5.10c
Stepping left and going up the crack puts the full route at about 5.10c. I think the 11a finish should be the variation because stepping right to get to the final bolt is less direct, not obvious, and it is contrived. Jun 26, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
This route was pretty fun and well protected, but I'm not sure where the start was...... Apr 8, 2011