Valle Cochamó Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 1,050 ft | 320 m |
GPS: |
-41.4117, -72.1247 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 242,986 total · 1,237/month | |
Shared By: | Sevve Elliot on Feb 25, 2009 · Updates | |
Admins: | Eric Och, Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
From user Daniel Seeliger
Visitors have labeled this Chilean valley the Yosemite of South America. Its similarities - surrounded by bigwalls, waterfalls and international climbing scene - also contribute to its unique differences - no roads thus no vehicles, no rangers, lush forest and a rainier (Squamish-like) climate.
This must-visit destination provides more than 200+ routes and potential beyond the imagination. Thousand meter granite walls border the valley along the Cochamó River. Atop the valley walls granite peaks and beautiful vistas stand everywhere, some with views to the Pacific Ocean, others into Argentina (Cerro Tronador, Aguja Principal - Frey).
Cochamó's climbing history started only recently in 1997. Its first three routes were established on Trinidad (Ides of March, Sundance, Welcome to the Jungle) in 1998. These routes were possible thanks to the dedicated efforts of British Crispin Waddy who had arrived the previous year and macheted for days through the thick bamboo to establish a trail to Trinidad's base, thus the genesis of climbing in Cochamó.
There are many committing traditional routes, big walls, and crags, even the overhanging mostly sport crag that stays dry during rainy days.
Overall the rock quality is excellent, and its texture can vary from wall to wall. If you want to open a new routes, it will likely need some degree of cleaning - some loads, others almost nil.
Check out cochamo.com for all the latest logistical information and great detailed maps of the area, such as a route access & description and hand-drawn topos.
Getting There
Getting to Puerto Montt / Puerto Varas
If you are heading to Valle Cochamó from Santiago (Chile) or Bariloche (Argentina), you must get to Puerto Montt or Puerto Varas. Some of the options to get there are below.
Air: There are a few flights a day from Santiago to Puerto Montt / Puerto Varas (Aeropuerto El Tepual - PMC). The flight lasts two hours.
If you're coming from the south, there are direct flights from Punta Arenas (near Torres del Paine) and Coiyque.
Ferry: If you're arriving from the south, numerous ferrys go to Puerto Montt from Puerto Natales (near Torres del Paine), Puerto Aiysen and Chaiten.
Bus: Buses from Santiago leave in the afternoon or night and arrive early the next day. There are different classes of buses, some of which are quite confortable. Various Bariloche-Puerto Montt buses leave from early morning to early afternoon. There are no night buses.
Private vehicle. If you come in your own vehicle from the north, it's not necessary to drive all the way to Puerto Montt. From the Panamericana, Route 5, get off at the Puerto Varas exit. Get on the road along the coast heading southeast and eventually east - Highway 225. If you're coming from Bariloche, keep in mind that the border closes at 8 p.m. and opens 8 a.m. It's also possible to come from the south via the Carretera Austral but only January through February because of the ferry that connects Parque Pumalin and Horno Piren.
From Puerto Montt / Puerto Varas to Cochamó town and trailhead
Most travelers arrive from Puerto Varas, but it's also possible to take other gravel roads that arrive from the south - Puelo, Horno Piren, Parque Pumalín. Below are options for arriving from Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt.
Private vehicle: From Puerto Montt or coming from the north, go to Puerto Varas and get on the coastal road that heads southeast and turns into Highway 225 heading towards Ensenada and Volcán Osorno. After less than an hour you'll pass through Ensenada and the highway will turn heading south. A few kilometers out of Ensenada you'll arrive to a major junciton. Vere right and head in the direction Ralun-Cochamó. After half an hour, you'll arrive to Ralun and you'll cross the bridge spanning the Río Petrohue. The road narrows and borders the Estuary Relonquavi's coast for 30 kilometers until you reach the Cochamó town. This is the last place to buy supplies. Continue past the town three kilometers. The road edges along first the estuary and then parallels the Cochamó River, entering the Cochamó Valley. Just before getting to the bridge that spans the Cocahamó River, turn left (norhteast) onto a gravel road and continue eight kilometers to its end. You can park your car in the road or for $4,000 pesos a day, in the Camping Los Pozones.
Public transportation: Buses to Cochamó depart from bus terminal in Puerto Montt. Departure time change continuously. Check the companies Facebook page for the latest departure times.
Vía Lago Sur (65-971788) departs:
07:45, 12:00, 16:00
Buses Rio Puelo (65-544226) departs:
08:00, 14:30, 16:30
Costs $3,000 (Chilean pesos) and takes 2 to 3 hours
It's important to know that buses will NOT stop in Puerto Varas if already full leaving Puerto Montt's terminal. This is especially common during the busy season of January and February. Some buses can take you to the trailhead, others will only take you to Cochamo town, where you can get a shuttle or taxi, or to the Cochamó-River bridge, located eight kilometers down river from the trailhead. The town is small enough to ask almost anyone where to catch a shuttle or taxi.
Trailhead to La Junta
At the end of the road or trailhead, check in at the Vistor Center. You'll need to show you have a reservation from one of the campgrounds in La Junta to be allowed to continue. Also, the trail closes at 3 p.m., so be sure to start your hike into the valley before.
Cross a small bridge and pass through a gate. From that point, hiking into the valley takes four to six hours. The trail is well marked and never crosses the Cochamó River. The hiking is relatively easy except for crossing through some trenches, pools and streams, which can become more difficult when or after it rains. Water proof hiking boots are highly recommended. Gaitors or rubber boots help significantly in wet conditions. Continue until you get to La Junta, the center of activities and accomodations in the valley.
Check out cochamo.com for all the latest logistical information and great detailed maps of the area, such as a route access & description and hand-drawn topos.
Packhorses or horseback: Reserve well ahead of your arrival if you plan to use packhorses for loads or ride in. Go to cochamo.com/en/packhorses/ for limits and reservations.
(Temporary) Organizational Note
Hey! I (Eric Och) am the new admin here as the whole area was formerly admin-less. My idea for organizing it is to consider the main valley (Rio Cochamo, Trawen, Camping La Junta) as having side valleys (Anfiteatro, Trinidad, Valle La Junta) and for all the main climbing to be sorted into one of those by listing the features (walls or peaks as appropriate) within each valley and then sorting climbs onto their respective features. If you feel like I've placed a feature into the wrong valley let me know or a climb onto the wrong feature please let me know! This is a work in progress. And if you feel like a valley, feature or route is missing and you've been on it, add it! Now that there's some organization hopefully it feels worth it to contribute
Feel free to reach out to me about anything Cochamo
Thanks,
Eric
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