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Areas in Valle Cochamó

Anfiteatro 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Arco Iris 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cerro La Junta 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cerro Trinidad 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
El Monstruo 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
La Paloma 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 11
Milton Adams 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Valle Trinidad 8 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 8

Description



From user Daniel Seeliger:

Visitors have labeled this Chilean valley the Yosemite of South America. Its similarities - surrounded by bigwalls, waterfalls and international climbing scene - also contribute to its unique differences - no roads thus no vehicles, no rangers, lush forest and a rainier (Squamish-like) climate.

This must-visit destination provides more than 150 routes and potential beyond the imagination. Thousand meter granite walls border the valley along the Cochamó River. Atop the valley walls granite peaks and beautiful vistas stand everywhere, some with views to the Pacific Ocean, others into Argentina (Cerro Tronador, Aguja Principal).

Cochamó's climbing history started only recently in 1998. Its first three routes were established on Trinidad (Ides of March, Sundance, Welcome to the Jungle) in 1998. These routes were possible thanks to the dedicated efforts of British Crispin Waddy who had arrived the previous year and macheted for days through the thick bamboo to establish a trail to Trinidad's base, thus the genesis of climbing in Cochamó.

There are many committing traditional routes, big walls, and crags, even the overhanging mostly sport crag that stays dry during rainy days.

Overall the rock quality is excellent, and its texture can vary from wall to wall. If you want to open a new routes, it will likely need some degree of cleaning - some loads, others almost nil.

Getting There

Getting to Puerto Montt / Puerto Varas

If you are heading to Valle Cochamó from Santiago (Chile) or Bariloche (Argentina), you must get to Puerto Montt. Some of the options to get there are below.
Air: There are a few flights a day from Santiago to Puerto Montt. The flight lasts two hours. From Bariloche, there is three flights a week and takes about 30 minutes. If you're coming from the south, there are direct flights from Punta Arenas (near Torres del Paine) and Coiyque.
Ferry: If you're arriving from the south, numerous ferrys go to Puerto Montt from Puerto Natales (near Torres del Paine), Puerto Aiysen and Chaiten.
Bus: Buses from Santiago leave in the afternoon or night and arrive early the next day. There are different classes of buses, some of which are quite confortable. Various Bariloche-Puerto Montt buses leave from early morning to early afternoon. There are no night buses.
Private vehicle. If you come in your own vehicle from the north, it's not necessary to drive all the way to Puerto Montt. From the Panamericana, Route 5, get off at the Puerto Varas exit. Get on the road along the coast heading southeast and eventually east - Highway 225. If you're coming from Bariloche, keep in mind that the border closes at 8 p.m. and opens 8 a.m. It's also possible to come from the south via the Carretera Austral but only January through February because of the ferry that connects Parque Pumalin and Horno Piren.


From Puerto Montt / Puerto Varas to Cochamó town and trailhead

Most travelers arrive from Puerto Varas, but it's also possible to take other gravel roads that arrive from the south - Puelo, Horno Piren, Parque Pumalín. Below are options for arriving from Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt.
Private vehicle: From Puerto Montt or coming from the north, go to Puerto Varas and get on the coastal road that heads southeast and turns into Highway 225 heading towards Ensenada and Volcán Osorno. After less than an hour you'll pass through Ensenada and the highway will turn heading south. A few kilometers out of Ensenada you'll arrive to a major junciton. Vere right and head in the direction Ralun-Cochamó. After half an hour, you'll arrive to Ralun and you'll cross the bridge spanning the Río Petrohue, where the turns to gravel. The gravel road narrows and borders the Estuary Relonquavi's coast for 30 kilometers until you reach the Cochamó town. This is the last place to buy supplies or arrange for pack horses. Continue past the town three kilometers. The road edges along first the estuary and then parallels the Cochamó River, entering the Cochamó Valley. Just before getting to the bridge that spans the Cocahamó River, turn left (norhteast) on a gravel road and continue eight kilometers to its end. You can park your car in the road or for $800 pesos a day, in the Camping Los Pozones.

Buses to Cochamó depart from bus terminal in Puerto Montt
Vía Lago Sur (65-971788) departs:
07:45, 12:00, 16:00
Buses Rio Puelo (65-544226) departs:
08:00, 14:30, 16:30
costs $2000 (Chilean pesos) and takes 2 hours
# public transportation: From Puerto Montt there are six buses daily to the town of Cochamó or Cochamó-River bridge. The trip takes more than two hours. It's important to know that buses will NOT stop in Puerto Varas if full leaving Puerto Montt's terminal. This is especially common during the busy traveling season of January and February. From the Cochamó-River bridge, the trailhead is located six kilometers up river following a gravel road. If you are planning to hire pack horses or save energy for the hike in, it's recommended to get off in town and arrange a taxi to the trailhead (see below).


Cochamó town to trailhead

It's recommended to hire a taxi from Cochamó town to the trailhead. Fit hikers and those not in a hurry can get off the bus at the bridge three kilometers past town and hike the gravel road six kilometers up to the trailhead. Otherwise tell the bus driver to drop you off in Pueblo Hundido - Cochamó.

Taxis: There are many automobile owners willing to transport people to the trailhead, the majority of which include jumping into the back of a pickup. Some of the more economic choices are listed below.

Gladys from the Ferretería Gladys
$6.000 pesos per trip, up to 9 passengers
+56-9-91514835 or +56-9-91298958 (Spanish spoken only)
Bus stop: Pueblo Hundido

Pepe Barrientos
$6.000 pesos per trip, up to 4 plus additional charges for additional passengers
+56-9-97895601 (Spanish spoken only)
Bus stop: Pueblo Hundido

The town is small enough to ask almost anyone where these people can be found.

trailhead to the Refugio Cochamó (La Junta)
Click image to enlarge.
Click to enlarge image.

At the end of the road or trailhead, cross a small bridge and pass through a gate. From that point, hiking into the valley takes four to six hours. The trail is well marked and never crosses the Cochamó River. The hiking is relatively easy except for crossing through some trenches, pools and streams, which can become more difficult when or after it rains. Water proof hiking boots are highly recommended. Gaitors or rubber boots help significantly in wet conditions. Continue until you get to La Junta River, the center of activities and accomodation in the valley.

Check out cochamo for all the latest logistical information and great detailed maps of the area.

32 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Valle Cochamó

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
La Presencia de mi Padre
Trad, Alpine 28 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon
Trad 10 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
E.Z. Does It
Trad 9 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio
Trad 20 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Hay Hoyes
Trad 6 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Camp Farm
Trad 7 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Coriolis Effect
Trad, Sport 17 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Todo Cambia
Trad 9 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Al Centro y Adentro
Trad 12 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Flakes of Wrath
Trad 6 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Las Manos del Dia
Trad 12 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
The Doppler Effect
Trad 16 pitches
La Presencia de mi Padre El Monstruo 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 28 pitches
El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon Anfiteatro 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 10 pitches
E.Z. Does It Cerro Trinidad 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 9 pitches
Bienvenidos a mi Insomnio Cerro Trinidad 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 20 pitches
No Hay Hoyes Valle Trinidad > Pared Silverback 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 6 pitches
Camp Farm Cerro La Junta 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 7 pitches
The Coriolis Effect Anfiteatro 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 17 pitches
Todo Cambia Anfiteatro 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 9 pitches
Al Centro y Adentro Anfiteatro 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 12 pitches
Flakes of Wrath Anfiteatro 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R Trad 6 pitches
Las Manos del Dia Cerro Trinidad 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 12 pitches
The Doppler Effect Anfiteatro 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad 16 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Valle Cochamó »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
JeffL
Salt Lake City
JeffL   Salt Lake City
This place is epic. Here’s what I wish I knew before going:
You just carry or hire a mule to bring all of your food and gear 13km, slightly uphill in the mud. I made 3 trips up and down over the course of a month. I’d recommend bringing 3x the amount of food you think you will need.

Every route requires at least an hour hike. Some routes require 6 hours of hiking. I felt like I needed more rest days from hiking than the climbing.

I can’t remember a single route that a 70m rope was required.
I’d probably take two 60m skinny ropes next time. You always need 2 ropes to rap.

Peanut butter can be found at only one store in PuertoVaras. It’s the one that is owned by Walmart.

Lastly, Chilean Spanish is WAY different than what you learned back home. Suerte! Oct 30, 2017
Jeff OC
Salt Lake City, UT
Jeff OC   Salt Lake City, UT
Headed here and to Frey this February and wondering about length of pitches and rappels. Debating on bringing twins or one skinny single rope of most likely 70m. Any advice would be great. Thanks. Nov 5, 2015
Jordan Moore
Berthoud, CO
Jordan Moore   Berthoud, CO
Loved the story Josh. I hope to have better luck than you, but I'm ready to become a bailing master as well! Sep 9, 2014
Brian Stuenkel
Boulder, CO
Brian Stuenkel   Boulder, CO
Great story Josh. Nate is actually a really good friend of mine who I'll be joining for some lentils and salami (and hopefully some climbing) in Cochamo in just a few short weeks.
I thoroughly enjoyed reading your story and if you're back down in Cochamo this season (2012-2013) hopefully we'll get to share a rope. Nov 9, 2012
About a year ago I tried my hand at writing an article about the lessons I learned while putting up First Ascents in Valle Cochamo, Chile in 2010. Unfortunately, none of the climbing mags responded to my emails (the sound of the world's smallest violin, I know). However, I thought I'd still try and put it out to the community in case you're looking for a quick read or are interested in Cochamo.

Thoughts and feedback are always welcome.

Here's the link:
The Fickle First Ascent Nov 8, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
FWIW, the name of the area has been "corrected" to its "true" name at the suggestion of one of our users. However, to help a non-Spanish speaking person find this, I'm adding some additional names that may help with the search engine of the website:

Valley de Cochamo, Valle de Cochamo, Valle Cochamo, Valle de Cochamó, Cochamo Valley. May 23, 2011
krispyyo
Ventura, CA
krispyyo   Ventura, CA
I'm glad to see someone has finally put Cochamo on this site. I spent some time there in 2006, and I must say that Cochamo is a truly amazing place, definitely an awesome world-class destination that's well worth going to. Lots of HUGE walls with almost endless first ascent potential, excellent climbing, pristine rivers and waterfalls, beautiful and lush forests with 3000 year old Alerce trees, rippin fast natural waterslides,and it's miles from any roads. The climbing is definitely amazing, be ready for some huge climbs with nice splitters, crazy slabs, and lots of Lumpy Ridge-syle flaring cracks. Some good websites to check out are:
cochamo.com (excellent Cochamo info)
stonedance.com (lots of good info on Cochamo and other South American climbing destinations)
cochamo.org (great site dedicated to protecting Cochamo from terrible fates such as hydroelectric dams, etc)
You can also go to Puerto Varas from Santiago and use that as a resupply town. It's a really nice little town by a lake, it might be a little more mellow than Puerto Montt.
Cochamo alone is definitely worth taking a trip to, but combined with Frey nearby in Argentina makes for one of the best climbing trips ever! Oct 7, 2009

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