La Presencia de mi Padre
Avg: 4 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 5400 ft, 28 pitches, Grade VI|
|FA:||Nathan Conroy et al, 2013|
|Page Views:||893 total · 73/month|
|Shared By:||Richard Shore on Mar 21, 2017|
DescriptionTouted as the longest rock climb in South America (excluding the mega-linkups around El Chalten/Fitz Roy), La Presencia de mi Padre takes a surprisingly moderate line of high quality up the largest face in the Cochamo area. The route is equipped with bolted anchors up to P24, and numerous bivy ledges are spread throughout the climb. Fast parties are routinely dispatching the climb in one day. The preferred approach for the one day send - camp at the Paso Querido del Caso Perdido (scoping the descent into the Valle de la Bestia via the Vertical Forest the day before), de-proach and climb the route, then descend from the summit back to your camp at the pass via the NE ridge.
The first 9 pitches go easily - 5.4 to 5.7 - and are commonly simulclimbed. The next 12 pitches represent the meat of the route - sustained 5.9+ and 5.10 climbing. The terrain eases off before the summit, but not without its own set of challenges. A snow and/or ice field awaits on P25, and it would be wise to carry axes or crampons. Depending on the time of season and presence of sun or cloud cover, one could expect to find soft snow, bullet-hard neve, or glacial blue ice. Come prepared or plan on rappelling 20+ long pitches back to the base and re-ascending the Vertical Forest (ugh!).
The American Alpine Journal writeup for this route can be found here - publications.americanalpine…