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La Presencia de mi Padre T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 5400 ft, 28 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Nathan Conroy et al, 2013
Page Views: 1,460 total · 84/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 21, 2017
Admins: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Tony Yeary

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7 Opinions

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Description

Touted as the longest rock climb in South America (excluding the mega-linkups around El Chalten/Fitz Roy), La Presencia de mi Padre takes a surprisingly moderate line of high quality up the largest face in the Cochamo area. The route is equipped with bolted anchors up to P24, and numerous bivy ledges are spread throughout the climb. Fast parties are routinely dispatching the climb in one day. The preferred approach for the one day send - camp at the Paso Querido del Caso Perdido (scoping the descent into the Valle de la Bestia via the Vertical Forest the day before), de-proach and climb the route, then descend from the summit back to your camp at the pass via the NE ridge.

The first 9 pitches go easily - 5.4 to 5.7 - and are commonly simulclimbed. The next 12 pitches represent the meat of the route - sustained 5.9+ and 5.10 climbing. The terrain eases off before the summit, but not without its own set of challenges. A snow and/or ice field awaits on P25, and it would be wise to carry axes or crampons. Depending on the time of season and presence of sun or cloud cover, one could expect to find soft snow, bullet-hard neve, or glacial blue ice. Come prepared or plan on rappelling 20+ long pitches back to the base and re-ascending the Vertical Forest (ugh!).

The American Alpine Journal writeup for this route can be found here - publications.americanalpine…

Protection

2x cams to 2", 1X 3", stoppers. 60M rope is fine if you plan to simul the easier terrain, and a tagline in case you have to bail.
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
At least one ice tool is necessary for this climb! Lots of parties bailed last year (from pitch 24!) Because they neglected ice tools. If the summit is clouded over during the day, or in late season, once the snow has melted out, the final snowfield is an icefield. One party told me they "nut tooled like that ice owed me money" in order to pass this final obstacle. This is a real mountain, please don't get tricked by the 5.10 grade!

The last 5.10 pitch is quite dirty as well, but is still climbable. Don't get suckered into the 4 bolt "variation", it's shut down quite a few crushers. Look for a single bolt ~10 meters off the sidewalk ledge, with a left facing corner crack. Aug 6, 2017
Neha Khurana
  5.10
Neha Khurana  
  5.10
It is amazing that a wall this big goes free at just 5.10! Great work, Nathan. This route is a full adventure, requiring good mountain sense. Our strategy was to complete the 7-hour approach (leaving a tent at the pass) and simul-climb 8 pitches the first day, sleeping on Dulce de Ledge. The second day we completed the remaining ~20 pitches and descended to our camp at the pass. This was a great alternative to climbing in a day, especially with high snow levels. Ice axes are necessary early season, as we encountered sections of 60 degree snow. Feb 14, 2018

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