Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Seth Putnam, May Martin, Tyler Gagne Feb 2013
Page Views: 2,483 total · 28/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 21, 2017
Admins: Eric Och

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A high quality line (for 5 pitches) up the right side of Cerro Espejo. Many parties just do the first 5 pitches and rappel, but the summit of Espejo is worth visiting at least once. It is guarded by 5 more pitches of chossy, vegetated, and runout climbing at the 5.7 grade. If you go to the top, try not to knock anything down and kill the parties below you.

P1) Up the RF corner, step right to a short splitter finger to hand crack and the bolted anchor. 60M 5.10-
P2) Fantastic RF fingers/lieback corner. Step left into a wide crack that narrows to fingers and a hollow flake to finish. Gear belay from small stance. 55M 5.10c
P3) Up the corner to an awkward transition left on a ramp. Bolted anchor. 15M 5.9+
P4) Up and right past an overhang and onto the sustained thin face. Bolted anchor on ledge. 30M 5.11b
P5) Follow more bolts up and right with a cool finish on an arete. 40M 5.10. Rap from here with two ropes - or - head right on the ledge and gain the Grand Staircase. 5 more pitches leading up and left will gain the summit.

To descend from the summit, choose between rappelling Excellente Mi Teniente (10 double rope raps) or walking off down the gully between Cerro Espejo and Pared del Tiempo (climbers left of Espejo). One single rope rappel over the giant chockstone at the bottom of the gully is required.

Protection Suggest change

2x cams to 3", stoppers. 2 ropes to rap the route.

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