Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches
FA: Cody Hood, Matt Touchette Feb '07
Page Views: 359 total · 9/month
Shared By: Thomas Gilmore on Mar 4, 2022
Admins: Eric Och, Alex R, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

*Pitch 1 and 2 are the same as Surfing for Stone

P1-35m, 5.10+: Belay climbers left to help with rope drag. Climb wet slabs into chimney. If chimney is wet, just pull on gear if you have to; the climbing above is well worth it. Place gear in edge of crack in chimney to prevent rope from getting stuck. Exit chimney and continue up shallow corner/crack feature. Belay at handcrack left of random bolt on face. Probably easiest to ignore bolt. Uncomfortable belay.

P2-25m, 5.11-: Continue climbing corner (5.10 PG-13) until you can step right out on face to clip a bolt. Make a crux move to arrive at a bolted anchor. 

*Possible to link pitch 1&2 into a 60m pitch with careful rope management. Belayer should be prepared to simul.

P3-25m, 5.12- (11a A0): Only need c3s, RPs/stoppers, QuickDraws, and maybe a .4 for this pitch. Direct belay off anchor is good idea. Climb right and down from anchor to access seam (small gear) leading to bolt (crux). Follow bolts (second crux) to bolted anchor on good ledge. Minimal gear opportunity after last bolt but significantly easier.

P4-60m, 5.10-: Perfect 60 meter splitter crack. Hands to mostly wide hands ending with fingers. Gear belay at small ledge at 60m. With 10 feet of simul (or 70m), the leader can reach bigger ledge but both ledges are good.

P5-25m, 5.10+: Finger crack to bolted anchor. Mostly small gear and stoppers (rack to single #1)

Descent: rappel to base of OW pitch on surfing for stone (climbers left) or top of pitch 4 of iron skirt (climber's right)

Location Suggest change

About 50 meters right of Al Lado del Corazon. Easy to spot above a marsh with wet slabs.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack .3-3, triples .4/.5, single .2 & #4, RPs, set of micro cams, alpines, 2x60m ropes

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