Type: Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: FA: Elise Mailot, Laure Batoz, Caroline North, Cooper Varney FFA: Cooper Varney, R.F. Battitude
Page Views: 3,490 total · 29/month
Shared By: The Real Battitude on May 21, 2014
Admins: Eric Och

You & This Route

18 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

p1.30m Finger and hand cracks to a two bolt belay. 10b
p2.45m Thin hands up the obtuse corner to #2's roof dubbed "pacman corner" belay at one bolt and .75 camalot. 11b
p3.30m Slam more hands out the second roof and up to a nice ledge with two bolts. 11b/c
p.4 55m climb off belay to the right and into a right facing corner. climb thin hands to a long #3's splitter and belay at a ledge with 2 #1's. 10a
p5. 50m Climb up into a short #4's crack and then up twin left leaning finger cracks to a ledge with one bolt. .10c
p6. 55m continue the left leaning crack system up ramps, bushes, and short flare sections to a huge ledge. belay takes #3/4's. 5.7
p7. 100m Scramble up mostly 3rd class to the base of the peaks upper pillar. stop at a huge ledge with a cairn
p.8 60m Climb a hand crack to an opening where going left through stemming and flakes gains a #4's corner. Belay in the corner when you run out of rope. 10a
p.9 40m Continue the corner to a ledge and begin the final 5m runout on great face holds. 5.9
Scramble 5 minutes to the peak and then descend the Doppler Effect via 7 rappels and some scrambling.

Location Suggest change

From the Doppler Effect Approach gully, cut off early and head into the gully that divides Pared Tiempo from the Shark fins Ridge head up two fixed lines and a tight tunnel through to access the base of the route

Protection Suggest change

2x cams from .5" to #4
3x camalots .75,1,3
1 set nuts