Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Billy Barghahn, Dana Hawlish, Brandon Hill
Page Views: 764 total · 29/month
Shared By: Billy Barghahn on Feb 17, 2019
Admins: Tony Yeary

You & This Route


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Description

Varied climbing on quality stone. Splitter cracks to begin, flakes and slabs in the middle, and adventure climbing to reach the top. Despite its location in the narrow gully, the route sees sun most of the day except for the crux pitch. All anchors are bolted, the route can be rappelled with one 70m rope. 

Pitch 1, 35m, 5.10-

Climb up left facing dihedral. Continue up and left through undercling to bolted belay.

Pitch 2, 35m, 5.12-

Cosmic Corner: Climb up to right facing corner. Move through thin finger jams or insecure stemming past the crux, placing several micro cams and nuts. Continue up sustained crack to bolted belay ledge.

Pitch 3, 25m, 5.9

Climb through chimney behind a chockstone and up a corner system. Mantle onto ledge and belay at two bolts.

Pitch 4, 15m, Low 5th

Scramble left up an easy 5th class ramp to belay at grassy ledge with one bolt.

Pitch 5, 40m, 5.11

Climb up corner and to top of undercling flake. Continue up and right to a bolt at the base of more flakes. Climb flakes and clip 3 more bolts. Climb horizontals clipping one final bolt to bolted belay at ledge.

Pitch 6, 20m, 5.11-

Climb the funky corner with tricky gear placements past one bolt to bolted belay at the top.

Pitch 7, 15m, 5.10

Move right off of belay for 10m and gain ledge. Move back left and clip bolts past undercling section to bolted belay. Scramble out left to shoulder of Cerro Laguna, and continue scrambling up to summit

Descent:

Rappel the route with a single 70m rope, including one rappel-only anchor out to the right on pitch 5


FA note: This route shares pitches with an unpublished route originally climbed by Eric Lynch and Chris Kalman in 2017. This party climbed pitches 1-3, without free climbing the 2nd pitch. The 2017 party then climbed two pitches of a crack system that is separate from pitches 4-6, with the lines rejoining at pitch 7

Location

Begins in the gully between Cerro Laguna and Tetris Wall.

From the Laguna, hike right and up talus field to gully. Continue up gully for ~15 minutes past Tetris Wall. After steep section, route begins on a flat ledge on the left at the base of obvious splitter corner system

Protection

2x .3-.75, 1x 1-4 cams
1x microcams
1x stoppers
Offset nuts and cams are useful
8 draws
One 70m rope

Photos