Type: Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: JB Haab, Chris Kalman
Page Views: 3,948 total · 30/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Jun 20, 2013
Admins: Eric Och

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

One of Cochamó's most popular "moderate" routes, featuring excellent cracks that meander up mostly 5.10 terrain. The route is divided into two parts, split in the middle by a large ledge. Each half ends with a challenging crack move.

Pitch 1:
5.9, 45 meters. Climb up slightly right and into a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 2:
5.10c, 35 meters. Continue up the dihedral as it curves its way left. Belay from anchor.

Pitch 3:
5.10d, 20 meters. Head straight up and pull the off-hands roof crack. Belay from big ledge system.

Pitch 4:
5.9, 30 meters. Move right and up a ramp to a ledge. Traverse right to a dihedral and up to a bolted belay.

Pitch 5:
5.10b, 40 meters. Don't go straight up. Make face moves left and up into a curvy mostly finger crack.

Pitch 6:
5.11a, 40 meters. Climb up, out right, back left past bolts and into the last steep crack to the walls end.

From the broad summit plateau, it is possible to continue to the true summit by scrambling about 90 min. west up the ridge line.

Descent: Rappel the route.

Location Suggest change

Near the back of the Trinidad Valley, the trail will take you over a boulder with great views, and then over a stream which you hop across into a marshy area. From the marshy area, follow the trail back right toward the wall, climbing 4th class slabs until you traverse right into a forest, then back left along the base of the Silverback wall to the base of the route. There are three large left-facing dihedrals on the left side of the Silverback Wall. NHH climbs the one furthest right.

Protection Suggest change

Double rack to 3, single #4 is optional, micros down to purple TCU/greenC3/RPs protect the finish. Plenty of long runners and draws (8-12).

2 ropes to rap. (If anybody got psyched to make this rappable with a single 70, JB and I would be grateful. It's almost there, as is). At some point I plan to go back and do this, and also make all anchors fully bolted, and equipped with rings, eliminating the tat and tree anchors).