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Routes in Pared Silverback

No Hay Hoyes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: JB Haab, Chris Kalman
Page Views: 1,578 total · 26/month
Shared By: Chris Kalman on Jun 20, 2013
Admins: Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Tony Yeary

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Description [Edit]

One of Cochamó's most classic routes offers excellent cracks that meander up mostly moderate 5.10. The route is divided into two parts, split in the middle by a large ledge. Each half ends with a challenging crack move.

Approach: Walk one hour futher after passing the camp at Trinidad's base. Locate on the back-side wall of Gorilla. The route climbs near the far left side.

Pitch 1:
5.9, 45 meters. Climb up slightly right and into a left-facing dihedral.

Pitch 2:
5.10c, 35 meters. Continue up the dihedral as it curves its way left. Belay from anchor.

Pitch 3:
5.10d, 20 meters. Head straight up and pull the off-hands roof crack. Belay from big ledge system.

Pitch 4:
5.9, 30 meters. Move right and up a ramp to a ledge. Traverse right to a dihedral and up to a bolted belay.

Pitch 5:
5.10b, 40 meters. Don't go straight up. Make face moves left and up into a curvy mostly finger crack.

Pitch 6:
5.11a, 40 meters. Climb up, out right, back left past bolts and into the last steep crack to the walls end.

To the peak: A spectacular flat granite soccer field makes Gorila's peak. But if you want, you can continue to the true peak about 90 min. scrambling west up the ridge line.

Descent: Rapel the route.

Location [Edit]

backside of the gorilla, at the base of the furthest right of the splitter dihedrals.

Protection [Edit]

check in refugio

Photos

cjdrover
Watertown, MA
  5.11a
cjdrover   Watertown, MA
  5.11a
Every pitch is classic! The last pitch, in particular, is one of the more stunning finishes to a route that I've ever seen. Sep 26, 2013

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