Surfing For Stone
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 4 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
FA: | Rod Hancock, Cody Hood - Jan '07 |
Page Views: | 448 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Thomas Gilmore on Mar 4, 2022 |
Admins: | Eric Och |
Description
*Pitch 1 and 2 are the same as Path of Righteousness
P1-35m, 5.10+: Belay climbers left to help with rope drag. Climb wet slabs into chimney. If chimney is wet, just pull on gear if you have to; the climbing above is well worth it. Place gear in edge of crack in chimney to prevent rope from getting stuck. Exit chimney and continue up shallow corner/crack feature. Belay at handcrack left of random bolt on face. Probably easiest to ignore bolt. Uncomfortable belay.
P2-25m, 5.11-: Continue climbing corner (5.10 PG-13) until you can step right out on face to clip a bolt. Make a crux move to arrive at a bolted anchor.
*Possible to link pitch 1&2 into a 60m pitch with careful rope management. Belayer should be prepared to simul.
P3-30m, 5.10+: Climb the beautiful left leaning crack in front of you. 10- hands leads to 10+ fingers. Slab move to the right at the top of crack leads to bolted anchor.
P4-45m, 5.11-: Climb flakes above you. Thin face move connecting flakes. Slab move to the right at the top of flakes leads to bolted anchor.
P5-35m, 5.9: OW splitter. 3 bolts. A optional #5 will calm the nerves of the budding OW climber. A strong party could get by with one #4 but be prepared to bump the 4 awhile/run it out.
Open project: There is one more pitch above that has been left an open project. It now connects with P6 of iron Skirt. Has not been freed to my knowledge and no idea what grade it would be.
Descent: Rappel the route
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