Type: Trad, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: Eric Frye, Zach Harrison in Febuary 2009
Page Views: 8,388 total · 53/month
Shared By: Zach Harrison on Jun 1, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Eric Och

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Description Suggest change

This is one of the easier and classic routes that makes its way to the summit of Trinidad. Great rock, fun climbing and goes to a rad summit.
P1 Boulder up to bolt, then up an easy ramp up right. 5.9,100'.
P2 Climb left out the 'Techo Manteca' and up the right corner to 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 100'.
P3 Follow the easy ramp up right. 5.6, 200'.
P4 Up the right crack, past wierd climbing belay on right by orange rock at small stance. 5.10, 100'.
P5 Climb left around a small arete to a left facing corner, follow this to a nice belay ledge. 5.9, 100'.
P6 Sweet thin crack to left facing corner, at the top of the corner move left at bolt to 2 bolt belay. 5.10+, 100'.
P7 Move up finger flakes right to left facing corner, then follow the left curving finger crack dihedral. At the exposed arete, make a exposed traverse into a big ledge at the mouth of the cave. The original route moves past a bolt before the curving dihedral at 11b R and not as fun. 5.10b, 100'.
P8 Move into the cave and climb towards the light to large ledge. 510a, 30'.
P9 From the anchor on ledge, climb straight up past a bolt and into a right-facing dihedral. Tend slightly right, past another bolt and into a thin finger crack to ledge. 5.10b, 100'.

You can find a topo in the wonderful refugio climbing book which will be more accurate then this recollection. The name comes from my partner and my names. He is 'Big E', and I'm 'Z'. This was an accidental FA, but since it was pretty good we went back to class it up a little with some bolts and nicer pitches. It was great to share the adventure with a great friend and partner.

Location Suggest change

The route is on the North Face of Cerro Trinidad. From the bivy, head left through the trees for 5 minutes until you reach a gully.  Hike up the descent gully about half way (~1hr), there is a shoulder on the bottom of the face accessible by a 4th class gully. E.Z. Does It starts at the left edge of the shoulder, there is a bolt 15 feet up. In the event of rain, this climb can become an overflowing gutter in a few minutes. Descend by standard hike off to 2 raps.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack of nuts, set of cams from TCU's to #4 BD, with some extra smaller and hand sized cams, runners. There are 3 protection bolts and 2 bolted belays.

Photos

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