Avg: 3.7 from 28 votes
|Type:||Trad, 900 ft, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Eric Frye, Zach Harrison in Febuary 2009|
|Page Views:||5,888 total · 53/month|
|Shared By:||Zach Harrison on Jun 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Tony Yeary|
P1 Boulder up to bolt, then up an easy ramp up right. 5.9,100'.
P2 Climb left out the 'Techo Manteca' and up the right corner to 2 bolt belay. 5.9, 100'.
P3 Follow the easy ramp up right. 5.6, 200'.
P4 Up the right crack, past wierd climbing belay on right by orange rock at small stance. 5.10, 100'.
P5 Climb left around a small arete to a left facing corner, follow this to a nice belay ledge. 5.9, 100'.
P6 Sweet thin crack to left facing corner, at the top of the corner move left at bolt to 2 bolt belay. 5.10+, 100'.
P7 Move up finger flakes right to left facing corner, then follow the left curving finger crack dihedral. At the exposed arete, make a exposed traverse into a big ledge at the mouth of the cave. The original route moves past a bolt before the curving dihedral at 11b R and not as fun. 5.10b, 100'.
P8 Move into the cave and climb towards the light to large ledge. 510a, 30'.
P9 From the anchor on ledge, climb straight up past a bolt and into a right-facing dihedral. Tend slightly right, past another bolt and into a thin finger crack to ledge. 5.10b, 100'.
You can find a topo in the wonderful refugio climbing book which will be more accurate then this recollection. The name comes from my partner and my names. He is 'Big E', and I'm 'Z'. This was an accidental FA, but since it was pretty good we went back to class it up a little with some bolts and nicer pitches. It was great to share the adventure with a great friend and partner.