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Y-Crack Wall
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Easy Tower Route T 
Green Zipper T 
Little pine T 
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T 
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Tower Route S 
West Face of Tower T 
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Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T 

Tower Route 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,008
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Aug 19, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (64)
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Bat in a crack on top of the Tower Route.

Description 

This is the main route up the center of the tower behind Y-Crack Wall.

A hard start gives way to easier climbing, angling leftward to the corner (it is harder than 5.10a to bypass the corner and continue straight up). The bolts eventually bring the climber back out on the narrowing face. Here the climbing is very special: the holds become patina-like, and the lichen stands out in technicolor splashes.

Upon completing the route, the climber is treated to one of the best summits in Wisconsin (behind Cleo's Needle, of course). From the small point of the tower, the climber can look out to the Petenwell Lake area or gaze with wonderment at the harder routes on Y-Crack wall. A rap from the two bolt anchor completes the experience.

Protection 

Bolts. Maybe a #2 Camalot to protect the start.


Photos of Tower Route Slideshow Add Photo
Fred and Isaac on the Tower Route. May, '07
Fred and Isaac on the Tower Route. May, '07
Ted topping out the Tower Route.
Ted topping out the Tower Route.
tr'ing tower route
BETA PHOTO: tr'ing tower route
The Main Tower Route on a perfect fall day in Wisc...
The Main Tower Route on a perfect fall day in Wisc...
Nathan Kutcher Trad leading the tower sport route....
Nathan Kutcher Trad leading the tower sport route....
Melissa G. moves through the low crux of Tower Rou...
Melissa G. moves through the low crux of Tower Rou...
Tower Route 5.10a
BETA PHOTO: Tower Route 5.10a
Rapping off Tower Route
Rapping off Tower Route
Dunbar in stem mode most of the way up "Tower...
Dunbar in stem mode most of the way up "Tower...

Comments on Tower Route Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 10, 2005

just for historical value ,this was lead by myself and jack klein in about 1982 0n gear and one piton(lost arrow).i dont really care that its been bolted. peace and fuk-nes.steve sangdahl
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Oct 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Jay-

What a perfect description, this route is mega-classic 5 out of 4 stars...
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 11, 2006

I like the picture of Nate leading the thing with gear. I have done that and it seems to make an otherwise uninspiring line into a memorable experience.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with James. This route is classic! It's like a giant Queen's Face (DL) and much harder. There is really no defined crux that I found on this climb. Just good 5.10 movement and a pump timer.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 13, 2009

aside from the section before the ledge, the gear is super solid. goes: #4 BD nut, #2 camalot, small nuts/small tcus to the top.
By Adam.Mohr
From: La Crosse / Madison
Mar 13, 2011

The network of cracks and crevices on this route makes it a wildlife paradise. You'll find that salamanders abound here. And now I always try to look into each crack before I reach in as once I nearly poked a bat in the eye. A great route btw.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

For those of you that have led this on gear, is it PG or PG-13?
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Josh, I looked at the gear and I'd say that it's PG-13 just considering the rock quality in some spots. But, the gear is there.
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Thanks Andy, I'll have to get on it.
By Tom Lausch
From: Madison WI
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Higher first bolt on a not so good hold can be mitigated with a #2 bd cam placement lower. Or a longer stick clip. Not a give me climb but worth it for the pump factor alone.