Tower Route 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | unknown |
| Submitted By: | Jay Knower on Aug 19, 2004 |
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Nathan Kutcher Trad leading the tower sport route....
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Description This is the main route up the center of the tower behind Y-Crack Wall.
A hard start gives way to easier climbing, angling leftward to the corner (it is harder than 5.10a to bypass the corner and continue straight up). The bolts eventually bring the climber back out on the narrowing face. Here the climbing is very special: the holds become patina-like, and the lichen stands out in technicolor splashes.
Upon completing the route, the climber is treated to one of the best summits in Wisconsin (behind Cleo's Needle, of course). From the small point of the tower, the climber can look out to the Petenwell Lake area or gaze with wonderment at the harder routes on Y-Crack wall. A rap from the two bolt anchor completes the experience.
Protection Bolts. Maybe a #2 Camalot to protect the start.
The Main Tower Route on a perfect fall day in Wisc...
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Fred and Isaac on the Tower Route. May, '07
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BETA PHOTO: Tower Route
5.10a
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Rapping off Tower Route
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BETA PHOTO: tr'ing tower route
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Melissa G. moves through the low crux of Tower Rou...
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Ted topping out the Tower Route.
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Bat in a crack on top of the Tower Route.
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Mar 10, 2005
| just for historical value ,this was lead by myself and jack klein in about 1982 0n gear and one piton(lost arrow).i dont really care that its been bolted. peace and fuk-nes.steve sangdahl |
By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Oct 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a
| Jay-
What a perfect description, this route is mega-classic 5 out of 4 stars... |
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 11, 2006
| I like the picture of Nate leading the thing with gear. I have done that and it seems to make an otherwise uninspiring line into a memorable experience. |
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Oct 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| I agree with James. This route is classic! It's like a giant Queen's Face (DL) and much harder. There is really no defined crux that I found on this climb. Just good 5.10 movement and a pump timer. |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 13, 2009
| aside from the section before the ledge, the gear is super solid. goes: #4 BD nut, #2 camalot, small nuts/small tcus to the top. |
By Adam.Mohr
From: La Crosse / Madison
Mar 13, 2011
| The network of cracks and crevices on this route makes it a wildlife paradise. You'll find that salamanders abound here. And now I always try to look into each crack before I reach in as once I nearly poked a bat in the eye. A great route btw. |
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jul 14, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| For those of you that have led this on gear, is it PG or PG-13? |
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Josh, I looked at the gear and I'd say that it's PG-13 just considering the rock quality in some spots. But, the gear is there. |
By Josh Olson
From: madison, wisconsin
Jul 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a
| Thanks Andy, I'll have to get on it. |
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