Thin Air 

A little wet but totally climbable. There is no standing ice on the route but the melting ice created a little bit of moving water running vertically across the traverse on pitch two and the chimney on pitch 3 is pretty wet as well.

My first trad lead and a memorable one. Highly recommended- will leave you with fond memories.

If by "crux 4th pitch" you mean the random 8 foot boulder problem at the top with a good ledge below it, then yeah, definitely cruxy. Kinda silly, but fun nonetheless.

As of July 17, 2009 there is a VERY detached/hollow sounding flake just below the tree/chimney on the third pitch. There was a nice chalk "X" on it when I got there. I didn't dare pull on it.

I climbed this route yesterday and the flake was still there. It is indeed super hollow and care should be taken to not pull out on this. I refreshed the X chalk mark. It's relatively easy to just reach up to the next section of flake that is solid and avoid this altogether. Awesome route!

The spooky flake is still hanging on, its not hard to work around it. No chalk mark on it right now.
Did (seconded) this yesterday as part of a Thin Air -> Hotter Than hell-> Inferno link up. Had the entire climb to ourselves which was nice. We linked the first and second pitches no problem.

We surprisingly got this route to ourselves today, Memorial Day.

We did the traverse pitched but elected to rap(2 ropes) rather than climb the wet third pitch. Water is seeping from the corner down the face off of the first pin on the third pitch. Just FYI.

This is a great climb. The upper portions are also worthwhile.

whats up with the chopped bolts at the pitch 3 anchor?

Don't ask. It is a battle ground for a long standing bolt war, that has generated reams of postings on various sites. I think we will all gag if we have to go through it again.

Actually I wouldn't gag because I don't know the story ...

I'll take a guess though; people were abseiling off the route because of those bolts and given the high traffic, it was always a clusterf*(k. Remove the bolts; problem somewhat solved.

Guess #2: The whole Nichols story.

there was a 2 bolt anchor at the ledge even though there are at least 3 places for natural gear anchors...
the last thing i knew there was a meeting and the locals decided to remove that anchor and 3 bolts on the traverse of pitch 2... these bolts were removed well without marring the rock...
this was years ago not sure if more has happened....

Just curious

Lee was talking about the traverse itself. The anchors at the end of the traverse are still live and well.

Pretty good climb; the traverse was exciting, I ran the first two pitches together. I enjoyed the chimney pitch - the final pitch was not my favorite. All in all though, worth the trip from Freeport!

Current Bolt Status (4/7/2012)

2 bolt anchor at the end of p2 (The Traverse)

that's it. all other bolts have been removed.

Shaky block still marked with an X in white chalk.

Thought this climb wasn't worth the hoopla as a Classic. Upper Refuse offers more varied climbing with just as scenic of a view. Would have preferred spending my time climbing Toe Crack to gain Pine Tree Eliminate.

Most exciting move was the 5.8 variation move at the top of P4 to gain the belay ledge.

Loved the crux on last pitch. A small wire protects it well. Spotting your feet prevents any awkwardness.

This was my first multi-pitch climb and I think it was a perfect introduction. If you are introducing someone to climbing who has little experience, this is a great next step in their progression. It was a perfect blend of confidence-building, and confidence-stretching sequences with roomy but not overly large ledges between pitches. P2 was also an intimidating first traverse but is doable for a new climber. The drive in shows off the promontory to awe them a bit. The climb's views motivate/distract them. And hike down is a nice cool down/debrief.