The Eye 

I definitely agree about the rating. No way this thing is 5.1!! It's pretty exposed, and there aren't a lot of solid gear placements either. This would make a great beginner climb as a TR, but I definitely wouldn't recommend it for the inexperienced trad leader.

It's in an interesting location, and it ends in a really neat slot, but I wasn't all that impressed with the climbing itself.

If you do end up toproping the route, be sure to bring 2 ropes. I think you can get away without having to pass the knot, but I can't be certain.

A really fun crach leading into a really sweet slot!! The slot has millions of natural achor spots.

four stars

It should be rated 5.3, but it's not?!?!?!

I agree with the 5.1 rating. Watch out for the guano at the top.

2 out 3 stars , maybe..., but 3 stars is rather optimistic.

A great spot to toprope beginners. Lots of exposure, and an awesome view from the eye...perfect for sunset photos!

This was my first trad lead...not a lot of gear, but solid handholds, and great views. Highly recommended!

This route should be rated 5.3 or 5.4, not 5.1 (in Vogel's book). I think this is a classic climb. The exposure is great for the grade and the belay is at the edge of a natural rock tunnel with a spectacular view. I enjoy this route every time I climb it.

I like to finish off my day cooling down on this climb and watch the sunset from the summit (don't everyone rush to this climb at sunset... :-) It has super cool natural features making the actual climb very fun with options. The route does have a certain amount of exposure (for J-Tree). This was my second trad lead ever, so it has a bit of sentimentality to it for me. I thought it was an excellent beginner climb with various options for pro. I'd give it a 5.3 or 5.4 rating though. As far as my lucky stars, I'd dub it *** if climbed at sunset and ** if climbed any other time.

This thing is better as a solo than a lead. There are ok gear placements higher up but a fall wouldn't be pretty from any part due to all the ledges. Good thing the climbing is really easy.

My buddy and I free soloed this and were a little surprised at the committing level with how steep it was. The holds are crazy big though and the route killer!

I think 5.3 is a fair rating.

This route was my first trad lead. I have lead a couple since then and I have to say that I was able to place plenty of gear on the Eye. Long runners are nice. There is definant risk of decking onto a ledge but a climber who is starting to lead trad should be able to pull those easy moves no problem. Fun route.

I agree with most this is more than a 5.1. I feel it is more of a 5.4. Took a while to set up top ropes, but it is do-albe.

I managed to set up a toprope for some friends with a single 60m rope and an anchor built on top, extended out over the edge. The ends came to about 4' up the "slab" at the bottom.

Would be quite easy with a 70m rope.

If you don't want to scramble down the back side and have a 70m rope, you can use the rap anchors on the SW face shown in the new Miramontes (sp?) guidebook (he says the rap is 100' but it's longer). Go through the tunnel, turn right then go west through a gully until you see the chains. A 60m will leave you about 15-20' short but on down-climbable terrain if you carefully (sic) rap off the ends of your rope(be careful to hang onto one end or you'll have a nasty solo to retrieve it for pulling). A great (but serious for the grade) route!

Pretty airy for 5.3 but the holds are all there. Extend your slings to avoid the dreaded rope drag.

Great solo with holds in all the right places.

I give it a solid 5.4 with 3stars only if you free solo it with headlights!!! A ton of fun for the midnight solo sessions!