Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Citadel

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival 
Clem's Folly 
Finger Breakers 
Finger Zinger 
Glad We Came 
Iron Worker 
Murray's Crack 
Nose, The 
Second Thoughts 
Stem Cell Research 
Styx n Stones 
West Ridge 
Wish You Were Here 

The Citadel 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 32.3717, -106.587 Map Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,111
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route Add Photo Add Comment Add Event 

The Citadel (west ridge) and part of the Rabbit ea...

Description 

The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes in a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation. There is still lots of room for exploration.

Coming from the bottom of the Rabbit Ears Canyon, the bottom part of the formation starts as a nearly vertical north-facing wall. The routes on this wall are all clustered near its right end. Murray's Crack is the right one of the two obvious off-widths. Finger Zinger is on a slab to the right of it and starts near a tree growing close to the wall. Arch Rival begins in the well defined arch to the right of that. The Nose is on the nose, as it should be. The West Ridge starts past the end of that face on the west-facing wall and switches back and forth between the north and west faces as it winds its way up.

If you go to the left of this cluster or routes, the wall becomes quite forbidding until it is interrupted by a large gully coming in at an angle from the right. The next section of the north-facing wall is set well back. This wall is shorter and routes start immediately at its east end with Glad We Came on the northeast arete. Next, in a corner, is Wish You Were Here, and then Styx n Stones.

Around the corner past Glad We Came is Clem's Folly. Here the rock faces more east than north.

When the sun is high in the sky, it may tent to shine directly down the face for some of these routes, but there will usually be shady and sunny faces to be found here.


Getting There 

From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 road until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is set back to your left and Rabbit Ears Slabs are on the right. The Citadel is the steeper formation ahead on the right. Follow up the canyon over some more difficult terrain.

To reach any of the routes from Murray's Crack to West Ridge go past the side canyon separating Rabbit Ears Slabs and the Citadel, then up the boulders on the right side of the canyon. Continue up the boulder field to the nose of the Citadel, then go past it along the base of the wall.

For the routes from Clem's Folly to Styx n Stones, stay in the bottom of the canyon and continue around Citadel. Eventually you will scramble up onto an edge if a large boulder field on your left. Start looking for cairn-marked trail taking off to the right just as the canyon turns southward.

Failing all of this, bushwhacking is always an option. Simply located your climb on the wall and make your way to it by whatever means.


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
West Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 650'   
Clem's Folly   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Murray's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 120'   
Wish You Were Here   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Glad We Came   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 145'   
Arch Rival   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Nose   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 140'   
Finger Zinger   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in The Citadel

Featured Route For The Citadel
Stem Cell Research, the crack as seen from the beginning of the climb.

Stem Cell Research 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b  NM : Organ Mountains : ... : The Citadel
A moderate off-width and chimney line starting ten feet left of Murray's Crack. It looks harder than what it is from the ground, but it is still very real up there. Getting established in the crack is not difficult (5.7-5.8), with one new bolt protecting the first 20 feet. Past that, there are placements deeper inside the crack and as you go up there's a chock stone that can be used for protection as well. Two finishes are possible at the top of the chimney:- The original route does a short trav...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Citadel Slideshow Add Photo
Citadel West Face
BETA PHOTO: Citadel West Face
The Rabbit Ear's[edited 5-30-06] as viewed from top of the first pitch of <a href='/v/clems-folly/105822413'>Clem's Folly</a>.
The Rabbit Ear's[edited 5-30-06] as viewed from to...
Citadel North Face
BETA PHOTO: Citadel North Face
Citadel East Face
BETA PHOTO: Citadel East Face
A view of the East Face of the Citadel
BETA PHOTO: A view of the East Face of the Citadel
Comments on The Citadel Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -