The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes, and a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation and there is still lots of room for exploration.
From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 rd until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is directly to your left and the Citadel is straight ahead. Follow up the canyon over more difficult terrain. There is a fork in the canyon a short ways up. Following the right fork/bushwhacking takes you to the Finger Zinger area, and the western face of the Citadel. For the NE face, continue up the canyon and up onto a boulder field with excellent views of the Rabbit Ear Massif. From here, bushwhack up to the cliff directly. The approach trails are mostly non-existent, but some faint tracks can be found. the best thing to do is to locate your climbs from the canyon, and then determine the best approach.
Browse More Classics in The Citadel
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
West Ridge 5.6 Trad, 4 pitches, 650 feet
Clem's Folly 5.7 Trad, 13 pitches, 120 feet
Wish You Were Here 5.8+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Arch Rival 5.9 Trad, 2 pitches
The Nose 5.9 Trad, 140 feet
Glad We Came 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 145 feet
Finger Zinger 5.10a/b PG13 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet
Featured Route For The Citadel
Wish You Were Here 5.8+ NM : Organ Mountains : The Citadel
A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM