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The Citadel
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arch Rival 
Clem's Folly 
Finger Zinger 
Glad We Came 
Iron Worker 
Murray's Crack 
Nose, The 
Styx n Stones 
West Ridge 
Wish You Were Here 
Unsorted Routes:

The Citadel 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 32.3717, -106.587 Map
Page Views: 6,510. Good page?   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on May 8, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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The Rabbit Ear's[edited 5-30-06] as viewed from to...

Description 

The Citadel is one of the Organ's better known climbing spots. It is home to several well established routes, and a wonderful secluded setting. Dennis Jackson's guide only highlights the best climbs on this formation and there is still lots of room for exploration.

The formation has a predominately NW aspect, but parts of it face NE or more directly to the west. When the sun is high in the sky, it may ten to shine directly down the face, but there will usually be shady and sunny faces to be found here.


Getting There 

From the Topp Hut continue along the 4x4 rd until it forks. Take the left fork which ends abruptly at an old mine. The trail into Rabbit Ears Canyon starts behind the tailings from this mine and is easy to find and follow up to the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon. At the base of Rabbit Ear Canyon, the Lambda Wall is directly to your left and the Citadel is straight ahead. Follow up the canyon over more difficult terrain. There is a fork in the canyon a short ways up. Following the right fork/bushwhacking takes you to the Finger Zinger area, and the western face of the Citadel. For the NE face, continue up the canyon and up onto a boulder field with excellent views of the Rabbit Ear Massif. From here, bushwhack up to the cliff directly. The approach trails are mostly non-existent, but some faint tracks can be found. the best thing to do is to locate your climbs from the canyon, and then determine the best approach.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Citadel:
West Ridge   5.6     Trad, 4 pitches, 650 feet   
Clem's Folly   5.7     Trad, 13 pitches, 120 feet   
Wish You Were Here   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   
Arch Rival   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches   
The Nose   5.9     Trad, 140 feet   
Glad We Came   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 145 feet   
Finger Zinger   5.10a/b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Citadel

Featured Route For The Citadel
Mike Edmond in the thin section of the dihedral. The camera angle makes it appear slightly steeper than it actually is. The ledge visible below Mike is where the alternate variation diverges.

Wish You Were Here 5.8+  NM : Organ Mountains : The Citadel
A beautiful dihedral just to the right of Glad We Came. There are a few variations on this climb. All of them start on easy terrain and head straight up into the dihedral. Mid-way through the dihedral is a good stance/ledge. An excellent single pitch climb continues up the dihedral (thin fingers and bomber stemming) to its logical end, and then makes an exposed but well protected traverse to the anchors of Glad We Came.Another variation climbs to the right from the stance/ledge and then up to ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of The Citadel Slideshow Add Photo
Citadel East Face

BETA PHOTO: Citadel East Face

Citadel North Face

BETA PHOTO: Citadel North Face

Citadel West Face

BETA PHOTO: Citadel West Face

A view of the East Face of the Citadel

BETA PHOTO: A view of the East Face of the Citadel