Tettegouche SP (North Shore) 

If I recall correctly from the late 80's/early 90's there was an older book for the North Shore areas of Lake Superior (IE Tetagouche- Palisade Head and Shovel Point) made a big deal about how that rock was so rare... That it was Rhyolite and that it was found there and in Turkey (yes, the country).

But if you go to the NM page, the comments there include some regarding rhyolite climbing there.

Can someone confirm that there was such a book in print and that it did say that? My memory is usually very accurate for that sort of thing, but 20 years is a long time for minutia.

Anyone been able to climb up here yet this season? I am thinking about coming up may 18... What is late/mid may weather like up there?

I've been hoping to get up there too, as I'm sure many have, but weekend weather hasn't been cooperative. What's it like in mid/late May? Anybody's guess. Could be shorts and tshirts, could be sideways snow. Keep an eye on weather forecast and cross your fingers!

I was wondering how the conditions have been with this warm spell? Also how would you predict the climbing to be in a few weeks?

A couple of us were up there this past weekend. Beautiful conditions. everything we got on was bone dry. Danger, driving in duluth, ex nihilo, and a couple others.
There's been people climbing up there for a few weeks now. Make the hike up there, well worth it to climb without hordes of tourists.

Just an FYI there is a local climber who worked hard back in the day when these routes were seeing their 1st accents who is enforcing the NO-CHALK ethic here.

He said the park service may (in the future) close down climbing in the park if chalk use continues. Or they may kick offenders out (permanently).

So don't use chalk...you really don't need it other than the mental release...

Ryan, back in the day, you mean even before 90's and 80's ? I'd also suggest this debate is kept between climbers only -- without involving the park officials.

I climb at VE in Duluth and have lead a few routes at palisade. I always bring chalk when leading routes because it's my a** that's going to hurt if fall when attempting an onsight. I guess the park service is going to have to kick me out and send me back to VE for the summer.

"Yup. Anyone that climbs at VE Duluth pretty much has no say in this matter unless you actually lead routes at "The Head." Go lead the classics and then give your ethical opinion. BTW, yes, the old school Duluth dudes did kick ass by developing this area. They are a proud few that deserve credit."

Darin you might what to shut up until you know who the people are you you are talking to. Ripping on strong climbers who train at Duluth VE, and who have had nothing to do with this conversation is about as dumb as the hole chalk ethic debate.

Is it possible to get strong at VE Duluth? I think that is a topic for real debate.

What? Are you really asking that question? or are you just trying to be a d-bag. You know we don;t have nearly the training facility you do in the cities, but we do what we can with what we DON'T get from VE and NICROS. And to answer your question yeah it is; within are small climbing community there are a few strong climbers.

I was trying to be a d-bag...

But really, I was trying to brighten the mood by poking fun @ ve duluth and not the climbers that get stuck training there. And I feel your pain.

I think we should start rap'n and make this a east coast west coast but instead maybe a north, south thing? Now what rhymes with Duluth?

Hey Nick Rhoads, if you stop by The VE in Duluth they have the book for sale there and you could, maybe find some people to climb with.

For me to not use chalk when climbing hard, someones going to have to pry the chalk bag out of my hands. Which I will lose, because my hands will get sweaty.

Hate seeing a line of chalk, showing the way. Much prefer to discover the holds myself. Appreciate those who use no/minimal/colored chalk to hide their tracks.

When is this chalk fight going to die? It makes no sense to me.

If I may weigh in...

Sometimes chalk is necessary, otherwise holds become almost impossible to keep securely.

I personally object to the gratuitous use of loose chalk which can really get everywhere while the use of chalk ball tends to keep things more tidy and sightly. Colored chalk is preferred if available. If you can climb it without chalk, one style point for you, bravo!

Everyone can get along here if people are conservative as possible, at the North Shore and anywhere else!

Anyone know whats going to happen with this weekend and the state issue? Will it be considered trespassing if you climb at shovel point or palisade? Will the gate to palisade be unlocked? I haven't been following the news only hear that the "state" is shutting down.

Wally612nd , We called Blue Mounds state park and they said that no day use of their park would be allowed. I would guess that it would be the same for all of the parks in the state and I'd imagine the Palisade gates would be locked. But you could call and get confirmation. I'm thinking of just going over to Wisconsin for the weekend.

Actually Mike, it looks like day use is okay:
www.dnr.state.mn.us/shutdown/index.html

7. Will day-use be permitted at state parks during a shutdown? (6-28-11)
If there is a shutdown, facilities would be locked, roads and campgrounds would be closed and gated where possible, water would be shut off, and no services would be available. It would be possible, but not recommended, for day-use to continue at state parks during regular day-use hours.

Just might require a bit more walking...

FYI- peregrines are nesting. Stop in the information building when you are getting your free annual pass (because you are a responsible climber =D) and ask about which routes are temporarily closed. Applies to Palisade and Shovel. Not all the routes, but many are affected.

Nick: "It starts below the ledge with that pigeon on it."
Lucas: Silence. Strange look.
Nick: "That's not a pigeon"