Elevation: 643 ft
GPS: 47.34, -91.188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,083 total · 214/month
Shared By: nodin on Apr 12, 2006 with improvements by Carl Schaefer and 1 other
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge
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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

The more moderate of Tettegouche's two sea cliff crags, Shovel is more popular with boy scout troops, church groups and top ropers. This notwithstanding, more than a handfull of full value classics are to be found here. Must-dos include Dance of the Sugarplum Fairies, Gold Plated, Rosses Crack and others.

This spot is popular with tourists as well and they will likely watch you climb and ask you questions.

You are encouraged to stay on the trails and use the new statepark placed anchors (the biggest bolt hangers ever!). Be kind to the trees as well...

Getting There

Park at the statepark rest stop and hike northeast following the signs.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: Shovel Point Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Shovel Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 32
Out On A Limb
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 51
The Great Yawn
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
Rise Over Run
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 89
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 27
A Dream of White Sheep
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Cornered
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 11
Did Plato Love Trees?
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Ross's Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Gold Plated
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
A Study in Scarlet
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 17
Sacred Biscuit
TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Straw House
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 11
Narcoleptic Epic
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Out On A Limb
 32
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Great Yawn
 51
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Rise Over Run
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Fa…
 89
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
A Dream of White Sheep
 27
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Cornered
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Did Plato Love Trees?
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Ross's Crack
 48
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Gold Plated
 39
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
A Study in Scarlet
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Sacred Biscuit
 17
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Straw House
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Narcoleptic Epic
 11
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Shovel Point »

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USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
This crag was opened out by Paul Ross and assistants while working for Minn Outward Bound School about 1973/4 .At that time here was not even a trail out to the cliff . There was a massive amount of loose rock on most of the climbs when first ascended.At this time about 12 climbs were first ascended up to 5.10, some for the use of students and some for their own personal fun. I think Palisade Head had one or two climbs on before anything was done on Shovel Point Jan 25, 2009
Paul,
Was that the story for Palisade as well? Jan 26, 2009
Great new hangers now at the tops of the most often climbed pitches!
I am honored to be part of a community that was able to make this happen. Let the regrowth begin! May 4, 2011
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
"The more moderate of Tettegouche's two sea cliff crags, Shovel is . . ."

I'm sorry, but despite how large Superior is, it IS a lake, hence the North Shore's cliffs are lake cliffs--NOT sea cliffs.

Go to the Redwood Coast or Acadia for true sea cliff climbing here in the USA! Sep 8, 2011
Dave Rone
Custer, SD
Dave Rone   Custer, SD  
Matthias,
Your observation is about as meaningful as which came first, the chicken or the egg. Climb on Palisade Head or Shovel Point and you know what sea cliff climbing is all about. Sep 8, 2011
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
You are right and I apologise for being a stickler for semantics. And please don't get me wrong, I'm sure it is especially lovely, committing, and fun---I'd be honored to climb there someday as I truly LOVE cliffs by water.
But the water on the ocean sometimes has big waves, and I mean big ones, and the air and the roar create a briny aroma which permeates everything... Sep 18, 2011
salt air? nope

big enough body of water to generate its own weather? check

big waves? define big, i do know on a rough day it makes me nervous to turn my back to the lake as i stand on the shore.

Hardest of the hardcore surf the lake in the winter. Sep 19, 2011
Garrett Genereux
Laramie, WY
Garrett Genereux   Laramie, WY
I was up at Shovel Point this past weekend, and while having some fun on Soldier of God we noticed some peregrine falcons switching spots on a nest just around the corner from us. When I spoke to park staff about it, she said that they aren't sure how many nesting pairs there are on Shovel Point this year and that they were getting ready to start putting up definitive route closure signs soon. I would guess that it is possible that Out on a Limb through Soldier of God will be closed through nesting season. Apr 24, 2012
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Define big, eh? Well, whilst new routing on sea cliffs on The Redwood Coast years ago (on the cliff itself proper, not "standing on the shore," my belayer was inundated by a rogue wave which rolled in from the Far East, all the way across the North Pacific Ocean, knocked him almost unconscious & off his stance. Had he not been anchored, I would have been pulled from the tenuous moves I was making.

So sorry, as fantastic as your area is, and it does look wonderful, it is still a LAKE cliff. Perhaps with "nailing and bolting ... not allowed," no wonder you are a bit testy about your especially beautiful place.

That would be deplorable! TR-ing a new line from the rim and not being able to bolt it for a some real adrenaline on the sharp end...or scoping an amazing traverse just above those glorious wave-lets, and not even be able to pound a KB or bolt...unless you covertly did it and then did not document it, except via word of mouth...that would be pleasant...

Oh, and having done many new routes on actual sea cliffs, I think I know what true sea cliff climbing is all about, thank you. ;-D Sep 9, 2012
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
Matthias,

Remember this isn't a surfing web site so your points are moot as far as I am concerned. Do rogue waves inspire you to climb better? Probably not I am guessing. I am also going to guess that the scenery, location, ambience, exposure and most of all the quality of rock are what matters most and this place looks like it has all of that and then some.

If they want to call it a sea cliff because it resembles one pretty much to the T then why not just let them?

PS - Ever heard of the phrase "inland ocean"? Dec 8, 2012
Evan Johnson
Minneapolis, MN
Evan Johnson   Minneapolis, MN
@Matthias Holladay:

big = "Annual storms on Lake Superior regularly record wave heights of over 6 metres (20 ft). Waves well over 9 metres (30 ft) have been recorded." - wiki Jan 23, 2013
Ryan Steel
Twin Cities, MN
Ryan Steel   Twin Cities, MN
I understand the no-chalk policy. However, is it acceptable to use chalkless chalk or organic chalk? I'm about to climb up at Tettegouche for the first time, and I just want to make sure that I don't upset anybody, hurt the rock, or upset the peregrines and others in the local habitat (and I don't really want to start/continue the chalk vs no chalk debate, I'm just asking a practical question).

Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! Aug 23, 2013