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Elevation: 602 ft 183 m
GPS: 47.33938, -91.18778
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 66,762 total · 303/month
Shared By: nodin on Apr 12, 2006 · Updates
Admins: K Ice, Kris Gorny
Warning Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The more moderate of Tettegouche's two sea cliff crags, Shovel is more popular with boy scout troops, church groups and top ropers. This notwithstanding, more than a handfull of full value classics are to be found here. Must-dos include Dance of the Sugarplum Fairies, Gold Plated, Rosses Crack and others.

This spot is popular with tourists as well and they will likely watch you climb and ask you questions.

You are encouraged to stay on the trails and use the new statepark placed anchors (the biggest bolt hangers ever!). Be kind to the trees as well...

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the statepark rest stop and hike northeast following the signs.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: Shovel Point Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Shovel Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 70
The Great Yawn
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 46
Out On A Limb
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 23
Rise Over Run
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Only The Lonely
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 136
Dance of the Sugar-Plum Faeries
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 41
A Dream of White Sheep
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Cornered
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 16
Did Plato Love Trees?
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
The Tree Route
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Ross's Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Gold Plated
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
A Study in Scarlet
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Sacred Biscuit
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 7
Straw House
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Narcoleptic Epic
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Great Yawn
 70
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Out On A Limb
 46
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Rise Over Run
 23
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Only The Lonely
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Dance of the Sugar-Plum Fae…
 136
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
A Dream of White Sheep
 41
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Cornered
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Did Plato Love Trees?
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
The Tree Route
 12
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Ross's Crack
 63
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Gold Plated
 66
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
A Study in Scarlet
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Sacred Biscuit
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Straw House
 7
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c TR
Narcoleptic Epic
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Shovel Point »

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