Elevation: 602 ft
GPS: 47.339, -91.188 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 38,896 total · 236/month
Shared By: nodin on Apr 12, 2006 with improvements by Carl Schaefer and 1 other
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge
Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

The more moderate of Tettegouche's two sea cliff crags, Shovel is more popular with boy scout troops, church groups and top ropers. This notwithstanding, more than a handfull of full value classics are to be found here. Must-dos include Dance of the Sugarplum Fairies, Gold Plated, Rosses Crack and others.

This spot is popular with tourists as well and they will likely watch you climb and ask you questions.

You are encouraged to stay on the trails and use the new statepark placed anchors (the biggest bolt hangers ever!). Be kind to the trees as well...

Getting There

Park at the statepark rest stop and hike northeast following the signs.

21 Total Climbs

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Location: Shovel Point Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Shovel Point

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 38
Out On A Limb
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 55
The Great Yawn
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Rise Over Run
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 5
Only The Lonely
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 30
A Dream of White Sheep
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Cornered
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 12
Did Plato Love Trees?
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 52
Ross's Crack
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 42
Gold Plated
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
A Study in Scarlet
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 18
Sacred Biscuit
TR
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Straw House
TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Narcoleptic Epic
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Out On A Limb
 38
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
The Great Yawn
 55
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Rise Over Run
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Only The Lonely
 5
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Fa…
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
A Dream of White Sheep
 30
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Cornered
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Did Plato Love Trees?
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Ross's Crack
 52
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Gold Plated
 42
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
A Study in Scarlet
 12
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Sacred Biscuit
 18
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Straw House
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c TR
Narcoleptic Epic
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Shovel Point »

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