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Routes in Shovel Point

A Dream of White Sheep TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
A Study in Scarlet TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Balance of Power TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cornered TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Did Plato Love Trees? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Ego-itis T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Gold Plated TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Barrier Roof, The T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Great Yawn, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Narcoleptic Epic T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Out On A Limb T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rise Over Run TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ross's Crack T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sacred Biscuit TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soldier of God TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Straight, No Chaser TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straw House TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree Route, The TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,946 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ian Harmon on Jun 13, 2006
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

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Description

Lower down to a small ledge just before you are completely surrounded by the namesake bright yellow lichen. Climb up somewhat broken and dirty overhung rock to the top, climbing two roofs in route. A fun route well worth doing but the dirtiness and slightly chossy nature of the rock detracts from the climb a bit in my opinion.

Location

This is the last route on Shovel Point. Continue down the trail about 50 yards past The Great Yawn. This route is a bit hard to find, it is in a small corner near a small ridge that crosses the trail. I remember being somewhat surrounded by trees. I'll add better beta after my next trip to Shovel.

Protection

Webbing for trees.
bricepollock
on the road
  5.10-
bricepollock   on the road
  5.10-
The climb is probably more like 30-50 ft down the climber ridge trail after the large anchors for The Great Yawn. Just after the broken tree and by three trees in a row. A 60m rope will hit the water so its best to keep some rope with you or saddle bag when you rappel.

Looks intimidating and overhanging but really good holds pretty good friction and not that technical of jamming. The second roof is the crux where you have to friction an outer foot but can pretty much chimney technique up with your feet. Super fun. Aug 22, 2017
Rock geometry near water ensnares rope. Avoid throwing extra rope down this climb, if the rope hits the water, adjust the anchor. two out of two times my friends or me have thrown too much rope, the waves somehow trap the rope in the rock (without an end knot). Great climb. Sep 10, 2015
This route and the area surrounding it are sometimes closed in the spring due to falcon nesting. Jun 1, 2015
Ryan Justen
St. Paul, MN
 
Ryan Justen   St. Paul, MN
 
Very fun. It looks more intimidating than it actually is. May 6, 2012
Rob P.
Twin Cities
Rob P.   Twin Cities
A fun, heady lead! Hanging gear belay on the little "gold" colored ledge. Gear to 3" May 9, 2011