Tague Yer Time 

Somebody took the piton that was part of the anchor below the last 5.12 pitch, right under the Astrodog raps. Right now it is a single bolt anchor with hard climbing above. It might be worth taking a medium-sized angle on the rappel to add to the anchor, then leave the hammer there to pickup on your way out.

Posted a new and fairly accurate topo after doing the complete route with Chris Righter. The only guesswork is the pitch lengths, but they should be about right. J Wharton suggests linking pitch 2 and 3, but drag may be a problem and then detract from the absolutely sublime climbing you just completed on pitch 2. I'd suggest belaying and soaking it in!

As to Topher's above comment: On pitch 12, we put in a nut that becomes part of the anchor and the first piece for the crux climbing. It goes just below the pin scar. I fell on it a couple times. Sounds sketchy but it keeps you off the ledge just fine and your other belay piece is a 3/8" bolt in bullet stone.

Tried the upper pitches the other day. Awesome route! Very hard crux that I believe is .12+.

This route is indeed a classic! If you enjoy thin granite cracks and corners with good pro, get on this route!

A few notes and suggestions:

Our original plan, and one I would recommend to anyone looking for a relaxed outing, was to spend two days on the route. It is very easy to rap in with a haulbag to the two-boulder-bivy. Take full advantage of the top-down hauling to bring beer, good food, boombox, whatever. The bivy is nice for two people. (We did not end up climbing the second half of the route on the second day, though, as threatening weather gave us an excuse to escape on Astro-dog. We came back two weeks later to climb the upper half).

As for the pitches, the long stemming corner on P2, and the p8 corner above the bivy ledge felt like the most involved, sustained leads. The hardest single move is definitely on p12 (the steep finger crack), but it's very short and easy to figure out.

The rack recommended was spot on, was glad to have a good selection of RPs and small cams. You could probably get by without the #3, or a second #2, but we found plenty of places to use them.

Finally, HUGE thanks to the FA team for establishing this line. This was definitely a route that had to be "established", I'm sure it required a fair amount of cleaning, and every one of the bolts seems pretty essential. It's not a line that jumps out at you, but it weaves its way and connects some amazing pitches on very good rock.

-Scott

Thanks for the kudos, Scott. You're welcome! Since you brought up the "established" aspect of the climb and "cleaning", I thought I'd clarify that Jared and I established the climb on lead with almost no cleaning. A few dirty fingerlocks was about it. That's why it is such a great climb - it was clean in the first place!

I totally agree with Scott's recomendation of spending a night on the two boulder bivy, and definitely bring the beer.

15 pitch routes don't get much cleaner or more classic than TYT, no worries, just great rock climbing!

Hey, does anybody know the history of this climb? I'd love to hear it if you have a minute

This route is beyond Classic! Some of the best rock I have ever climbed. The 5.12 pitch off of 2 boulder bivy is freakin' amazing!

The bottom 7 pitches were definitely softer than the top ones. The one .12a off the 2 bldr bivy is the hardest of the .12a's.