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Trashcan Rock - West Face
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Profundity T 
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Tulip T 
Walkway T 

Profundity 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Wegener, February 1973
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Feb 8, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (54)
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Top Roping Profundity. 2004. Photo By Jeff Laina.

Description 

This is a west face route to the right of B-2. There are two bolts and getting to the first one is around 5.8 and high enough to get hurt. Moving by the first bolt is somewhat height dependent. For me at 5'9" it's a 10b. From the second bolt go straight up(10c) or traverse right and up--easier (5.10a).


Protection 

Two bolts, pro to 2.5" for anchors



Photos of Profundity Slideshow Add Photo
Moving up to the second bolt
Moving up to the second bolt
Balancing!
Balancing!
Profundity face, 1982 (before it became polished and harder).
Profundity face, 1982 (before it became polished a...
Comments on Profundity Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 17, 2014
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 16, 2004

I found the crux to be getting past the first bolt. Beyond that, I would call the remainder of the route 5.9ish.

By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Nov 16, 2004

I agree Mike I think the crux is getting to the first bolt. once you get over your feet, it seems to get easier.

By Bo Johnston
Feb 9, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with Mike. The hardest part of the climb is passing the 1st bolt. The rock is very polished in that area at your feet from all those before... I'm 6'3" and still, it's a lot of work to reach the better hoizontals above. After that, going straight up is no problem and no harder than 10a. I don't really see why anyone would head right and get away from the natural line. It doesn't seem all that much easier and certainly not as fun. This is a very good route for learning how well this J-Tree stone will stick to your shoes!!!!!

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Feb 9, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree with Bo and Mike that getting past that first bolt is a doozy. And the Bo man nails it bringing up how polished it is. I remember many years back when it was not so and was easier........soon it will be upgraded to 5.glass considering how many people frequent the area........I have led it many, many times as has my son. When on Trashcan......it's a must do for us..........

By namascar
Mar 21, 2005
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

After the first bolt feels like 10b, but after the second feels a bit harder, 10c is fair.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Good beginner intro to Jtree slab climbing...Learning to trust those shoes.

By Blitzo
Sep 10, 2006

Just another 5.10 slab.

By 72HW
Mar 3, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

Stepped onto this one with confidence, then came the whole getting to that first bolt thing... luckily a friend swung over from Tip Toe and clipped the thing for me. So then I tried to lead past that bolt, no go. Just felt so wonky. Backed off and top roped it. The mantel is solid, hardest part for me was moving past the second bolt. Not one I'd like to lead any time soon.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
May 24, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Not sure why it's "R". Good wire below the first bolt if you want to stop and put it in. Move past the first bolt seemed like 5.10a, but just one move to good horizontal rail, for me the crux was oozing up past the second bolt.

By Thomas Thelen
From: Prescott, AZ
Apr 7, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

ah yet another reminder that I don't enjoy face climbing as much as crack climbing. I'm 6'4" and it didn't help that much, getting past that first bolt it challenging to say the least.

By Rodger Raubach
Sep 9, 2010

Makes a great toprope for slab climbing practice. Moving up from the first bolt seems to be the crux move. Can be frustrating but fun.

By Joe Hunt
From: Long Beach, CA
Mar 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Done this one a million times, and watched a million people on it. Crux for people is definitely getting to the horizontals and then standing on them. Height dependent difficulty there for sure. Can't see any PG or R rating, the only chance you have of getting hurt on lead is if you accidently slip on the first five feet, but you wouldn't get hurt bad and that is pretty normal for all routes. A spotter is nice for that. Otherwise just a real fun classic route to me. I have a video of John Long climbing it in '91 and he walks all over it like it's nothing at all.

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 27, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

I thought the harder move was after clipping the second bolt and heading straight up the line. Tenuous and interesting smear with good body tension. Fun move. Of course I underestimated the beginning move past the first bolt and slipped off... The PG-13 rating probably comes from the run out to the top above the second bolt. If you fell near the top (and there really isn't any reason to - it's probably 5.9 slab), you would deck for sure. Just makes you a bit nervous knowing you cannot mess up the upper section.

By Matt Michael
From: Oceanside, CA
Jan 26, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

Pretty fun imo

By alex carey
Oct 19, 2013

weird, i had no problem getting past the first bolt and standing on the horizontals, but wasn't able to finish the climb and get beyond the second bolt.

By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Feb 17, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

I thought in between the first and second bolts was the crux (basically the moves right after you clip the first bolt). I wouldn't call it run out but falling from near the second bolt would be a bad idea. Obviously don't deck before you clip the first bolt either (you could probably fiddle in some gear if you're worried).