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Huntington Ravine - Winter Ice Climbing
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Central Gully 
Damnation Gully 
Diagonal Gully 
Escape Hatch T 
North Gully 
Odell's Gully 
Pinnacle Gully 
South gully 
Yale Gully 

Pinnacle Gully 

WI3

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500', Grade III
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: Samuel A Scoville & Julian Whittlesey 2/8/1930
Page Views: 19,075
Submitted By: Orphaned on Nov 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (82)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking Up at P2; Note the 12" - 15" thi...

Description 

Overall an amazing route in a great location. Pretty straightforward, but remote - so self-reliance is key. Most of the accidents, and "near misses" (of which there have been MANY!) occur, not on the NE-3 ice, but above the ice where snow conditions can be treacherous and misleading...what looks and feels like beautiful neve may be three-foot-thick windslab. Take care, and remember: "It ain't over till it's over!"

Location 

To the left of the low-angle Central Gully and just to the right of Pinnacle Buttress.

Protection 

Screws - possibly some rock gear for belays (there is fixed gear easily found on both sides of the gully at 60m rope lengths)


Photos of Pinnacle Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking DOWN from near the top (photo taken circa ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking DOWN from near the top (photo taken circa ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin ice after warm week. Nov. 11th 2013. Looking ...
Thin ice after warm week. Nov. 11th 2013. Looking ...
Rock Climbing Photo: 11/29/12  The climb without snow... awesome.  Firs...
BETA PHOTO: 11/29/12 The climb without snow... awesome. Firs...
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up P1.
Working up P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch one rap
Pitch one rap
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on Pinnacle Gully.
Climbers on Pinnacle Gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the climb.
Top of the climb.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of Pinnacle Gully
The start of Pinnacle Gully
Rock Climbing Photo: New years day 2015
New years day 2015
Rock Climbing Photo: The snowy start to the second pitch
The snowy start to the second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Topout
Topout
Rock Climbing Photo: Pinnacle on the left, Central on the right
BETA PHOTO: Pinnacle on the left, Central on the right
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2
Pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Base of the Gully
Base of the Gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Halfway up the first pitch
Halfway up the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: A group of climbers makes their wat up Huntingtons...
A group of climbers makes their wat up Huntingtons...
Rock Climbing Photo: 3/4 of the way up the first pitch of Pinnacle
3/4 of the way up the first pitch of Pinnacle
Rock Climbing Photo: A busy day on pinnacle.
A busy day on pinnacle.
Rock Climbing Photo: Phil Schuld during an almost full moon ascent
Phil Schuld during an almost full moon ascent
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at pitch 2 from the belay.
Looking up at pitch 2 from the belay.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pinnacle, as seen from Yale gully.
Pinnacle, as seen from Yale gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Ritter the crux pitch
Matt Ritter the crux pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Duncan pulling through the crux on pitch 1
Duncan pulling through the crux on pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Ritter on the crux
Matt Ritter on the crux

Show All 29 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Pinnacle Gully Add Comment
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By Ian Wolfe
From: Fayetteville, NC
Apr 6, 2010
rating: WI3

Climbed the route Sunday, 4 April 2010. The right half of the climb was a raging torrent. The left half, was soft and wet, but screws held solid and the sticks were swing and forget. I brought with me a .5 and .75 camalot and a set of nuts, and was glad to have them.

We did the route in 4 pitches, with the 2nd and 4th being primarily snow. The 3rd, though not as difficult as the 1st pitch, was my favorite. The gully narrows to a couple meters across, the pinnacle pushes rock over your head, the waterfall was running down the right half. I could literally see water rushing under the ice I was kicking in to, and the ribbon of ice we were climbing was only about a meter wide! Wild!

I dropped my pack at the Alpine Garden, ran up and tagged the top 30 minutes later, and then returned to my pack to strap on the skis we had carried up with us. We skid down Tuckerman's and enjoyed a Hefe.

Glorious.
By Paul Rago
Mar 21, 2011

i've been up this route twice and could only find fixed gear at the top of p1. There were two spots that had pins here, both on the overhanging wall: next to your head and down below by the snow. But the latter was snow covered and difficult to find. There was a pin near the end of p3 where a 0.5-0.75 C4 would also fit.
By Ben Brotelho
From: Albany, NY
Dec 5, 2012

Any word on the condition of the Gully lately? NEice is slow to respond to inquiries...planning a trip in 2 weeks!

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