Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Want to test your friction skills? This is the route! Working the steep face on micro edges will have your tips burning and only great footwork will get you through. The lower moves are protected by a small cam in the lower crack and bolts up above. The crux is passing the 1st bolt, with some different options. I prefer to work it straight up focusing on balancy feet. Some like moving right to a juggy ledge to overcome. Work the thin edges to the top and keep out of Alice's crack!
Location
The face just right of Crazy Alice.
Protection
2 Bolts and some small cams down low. Chain Anchor.
If you blow the first bolt, a standard belay will let you deck. A dynamic belay can lessen the impact, if not avoid it, so bring a compentent partner. Hopping off the belay ledge as the fall occours seems to be the most effective technique. Get good spotters, and a crash pad never hurt anyone. Except that girl who broke her ankle tripping over one....
Southern Rock
"Bring a cool head on this one."
Rating History
Raleigh and Thomas rated this 5.10x using old school ratings. Back when there was only one bolt to protect the crux. Then Chuck's guide placed it at 5.10a RX. Finally Tony advanced the rating up to 5.10dX.
By Daniel S From: Oklahoma City Mar 6, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c X
I only remember two bolts as recently as August 2006. Has a new bolt been added since then? Also, if you blow the first bolt, you will deck even with a cam placement in the highest crack. In the guide books, the safety of this climb is rated RX.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Mar 12, 2007
There are two sets of chain anchors at the top. So Dr. Coolhead AND crazy alice can be run at the same time. They are only a few feet apart.
By Andy Chasteen From: Oklahoma City, OK Jan 28, 2008
Still only 2 bolts. And yes there is a good deal of space where your cam will not prevent ground fall if you fall before the first bolt.
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