Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Looking across the main face. The most notable li...
Description
This is often called the best 5.6 in the state, and sometimes the nation. Never disappoints. The crux is moving under the roof, which looks intimidating from the ground but all the positive holds are solid making this thing a blast for anyone.
Location
The Left most route on the main wall. The obvious Dihedral
Protection
Big gear down low and normal stuff up top. Use a long runner under the roof to reduce rope drag.
Although I gave this route a 4 star rating, it is mostly for historic value. Don't be fooled into thinking that this route is the best 5.6 in Oklahoma, let alone the nation. In fact, here is a list of better 5.6's that first time leaders can be psyched on:
Yee Haw; Upper Mt. Scott (3 freaking star route for sure) Side Saddle: Zoo Wall left Great Expectations; Elk Slab Large Corner Girdle; Lichen Wall
Get out and do these routes before you slide off the Dihedral grease-fest!
I've never heard anyone call it the best 5.6 in the state. All the same, not a terrible climb, but the rest of the climbs on that face are much better.
Grease fest? I don't recall this route being slick at all. Climbed it twice without any problems. Second time was on TR hauling up as fast as I could to photograph a climber on Crazy Alice. I have heard this is more of a "Level 2" newbie leader climb though, but mostly because of the ledge and use of runners.
Great classic route. Rating is more around 5.7 now because a lot of moves are polished and the move coming out of the roof is more of a 5.7 move as well. Done this as a second and on lead.
Route can give new leaders a run for their money, there is potential to fall on ledges all the way up, so be careful when protecting. It doesn't hurt to have a #4 on this route either, maybe even two. I think I only placed one though.
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