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Routes in Zoo Wall
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Bloodbath And Beyond T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Body Suit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Closed Heimer (AKA The Big Flush) TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conflict In Terms T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crazy Alice T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Critical Mass T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dihedral, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dr. Coolhead T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Extended Altar Call T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fantasy Roof T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Grasshopper, AKA "Richard Pryor Route" T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Nun Variation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flying Nun, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Knuckle Sandwich T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Larin Has Balls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leap Frog T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Roof (aka Small Roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Master mind T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Masters of Reality T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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McBride's Mind T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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My Name is Nobody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Stone Unturned T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Resurrection Factor T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scrotum Roof T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shake and Bake T C2 |
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Side Saddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Slap Roof T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sloth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Squeeze Play T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight Face TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sundown Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sweet Jesus T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Thunder route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Time the Avenger TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Too Much Fun T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Triple Decker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unfinished Piece, The T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Yellow Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.69731, -98.66948 |
| FA: | Mike Panciera, David Panciera, Greg Schooley, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 11,049 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Craig Childre on Sep 15, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
Access Issue: Access is always an issue here.
Details
Description
The best 5.8 in the park, if not the entire state. Follow the zig zagging crack up the face. Great jams will have you wanting more. Crux is not very clear, about 25-30 feet up the crack breaks up some and the feet aren't as good, the high section has some awkward jams. Balance can be hard since you always seem to be leaning one way or the other.
Protection
Great gear, the last time I was on, it ate all 8 of my Rock Empires. Just fire in the gear and move. Chain anchors.
Testpiece
This route deserves the MEGA CLASSIC rating, because it features sustained climbing for a full 50-60 feet, requiring a variety of techniques to send. I would suggest that if you can send Crazy Alice, you will have no trouble with any other 5.8 in the refuge. I always reguarded it as the areas testpiece.
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