Black Velvet Canyon

Anthony fiddles above the crux moves on the 4th pi...

Description 

Black Velvet Canyon could well be called the crown jewel of Red Rocks. The black, varnished rock is of the highest quality and its walls host a high concentration of excellent and longer trade routes. With walls over 2,000 feet high, the canyon receives little sunlight and as such can be quite a bit cooler than other areas. Area classics include Epinephrine (V 5.9, 12-18 pitches), Prince of Darkness (5.10c), Frogland (5.8), Triassic Sands (5.10c), Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a), Yellow Brick Road (5.10a), Refried Brains (5.9) and many others that I haven't yet climbed. As expected, the classics tend to be crowded (especially Frogland, Prince of Darkness, and Epinephrine). It is recommended to have an alternative in mind should there be a queue for your desired route.

Many routes require two ropes to rappell.

Camping is NOT permitted at the trailhead (parking area) and violators will be ticketed. Legal camping can be found 2 miles east of the Visitor Center on Hwy 159 for $10 per night per site.

Getting There 

Unlike much of the Red Rocks area, Black Velvet Canyon is NOT accessed via the Scenic Loop Road. Instead, from the Red Rock Canyon Campground (a.k.a. "13 Mile Campground"), drive southeast on Hwy 159. At the intersection with Hwy 160 (gas station w/ good beer selection), turn right (west) for approximately 4.5 miles towards Pahrump. Be on the lookout for a dirt pullout and road on the right-hand (north) side. Follow the dirt road to its terminus. Although fairly bumpy, 2WD vehicles **should** be okay. Park and follow the well-defined trail from here. Count on a half hour to 1 hour for approach.

The Classics

Featured Route For Black Velvet Canyon

The Breathing Stone 5.11  NV : Red Rock : ... : Western Spaces Wall

A couple of hundred meters up canyon from the Black Velvet wall is the wall with this route. It is marked by a 50-60 foot across arching roof which sticks out 6-10'.Pitch 1: Climb the right side of a small pillar to a bolt (5.9) and then up the face above passing a total of 5 bolts (5.10a) till just below the left end of the roof. Place cams and surmount the roof (5.11a)to a sling belay at two bolts.Pitch 2: Straight up to a fp then up and right ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of Black Velvet Canyon Slideshow

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Sunrise over Red Rocks taken from the drive-in app...	BETA PHOTO: Black Velvet Overview	Black Velvet Canyon. Photo by Blitzo.
Desert Mariposa-Black Velvet Canyon. Photo by Blit...	Utah Penstemon-Black Velvet Canyon.. Photo by Blit...	Even when the lights are too low and funky to see ...
A local checking out what all the noise is about	The good, the bad, and the ugly after 6 days of cl...	On the approach trail to Black Velvet.
A busy day chasing the shade in Black Velvet Canyo...	An early morning moon over Black Velvet Canyon.	Sunrise in Black Velvet Canyon.
The early morning coil. Everyone who has climbed ...	Sween sunrise from the trailhead to Black Velvet.	BETA PHOTO: Black Velvet from the nearest telephone.
Climbers on Sour Mash, I believe. Photo taken Oct ...	Black Velvet Canyon