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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
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Ancient Futures T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tri Tip T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Wax Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wax Cracks Extension (Open Project) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Rose of Texas T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 36.03599, -115.46885 |
| FA: | FFA Jerry Handren and ? |
| Page Views: | 12,179 total · 61/month |
| Shared By: | j wharton on Mar 30, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
This route, along with Jet Stream, is one of the best routes I have climbed recently--bizarre, technical, and intricate. Be prepared to scratch your head a bit. Begin with the first 3 pitches of Texas Tower Direct, which gains the base of the obvious left facing corner.
- P4: A small piece or two gains the first bolt, and then it's all bolts from there. Lots of 5.12 bits, but definitive cruxes leaving the corner at the first bolt, and regaining the corner 20' above.
- P5: A short pitch. Boulder off the belay to gain a cool traverse left along the lip of the roof. Pop over, and climb easily up to the belay.
- P6: Didn't climb this bit, but apparently a short .11+ traverse leads right into the last pitch of Texas Tower Direct.
Protection
Lots of draws (especially for pitch 3 of TTD), and a single set of cams to 3 inches. You can make do with a little less if you're so inclined. NOTE: if you rap with a single 70 you will be forced to down solo some delicate 5.8 to get to the anchor above pitch one, so a tag line isn't a bad idea.
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