The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall Rock Climbing
|GPS:||36.036, -115.469 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Sep 6, 2016|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
DescriptionThis wall is the continuation of the Black Velvet Wall past the Black Tower. It stretches west from Epinephrine to Great Expectations, at which point the wall bends southwards (following the South Fork of Black Velvet Canyon) and becomes the Western Spaces Wall.
Routes listed here are right of Epinephrine (beginning with Ancient Futures) and left of the Western Spaces Wall (concluding with Great Expectations).
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
Getting ThereApproach as per most Black Velvet routes, continuing on to Epinephrine. If climbing routes further up canyon than the Shuffle, one will need to access a long terrace 100' above the canyon floor. The following description (borrowed from the approach instructions for The Velveteen Rabbit) explains how to do this:
The east end of the terrace can be accessed by climbing the first (5.7) pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone which is an obvious wide crack in the unmistakeable left-facing corner just past Epinephrine. Once on the terrace, scramble west to your route of choice. Note: reversing this approach and rapping is the fastest way out at the end of the day.
An alternative and faster approach is by way of the far (west) end of this terrace: Continue in the wash for another five minutes past Epinephrine to the point where Corduroy Ridge splits the canyon into two forks. The south fork (left) is followed to access the Western Spaces Wall and the north fork (right) is followed to reach Sick for Toys. Scramble 60’ up the toe of Corduroy Ridge via an exposed and slippery 4th class rib of rock sandwiched between an occasionally wet slide to the left and a bolted slab to the right. Once on the level spot above (this is the very bottom of the south fork of BV Canyon) immediately turn left and scramble 30’ up a 5.0 chimney which deposits you at the west end of the same long terrace described previously. Pass underneath the start of Great Expectations and follow the terrace back to the start of your route.
Approach time is 40-45 minutes (10 minutes past Epinephrine).
Classic Climbing Routes at The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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