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Elevation: 4,834 ft 1,473 m
GPS: 36.03599, -115.46885
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 50,712 total · 472/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 6, 2016
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This wall is the continuation of the Black Velvet Wall past the Black Tower. It stretches west from Epinephrine to Great Expectations, at which point the wall bends southwards (following the South Fork of Black Velvet Canyon) and becomes the Western Spaces Wall.

Routes listed here are right of Epinephrine (beginning with Ancient Futures) and left of the Western Spaces Wall (concluding with Great Expectations).

Getting There Suggest change

Approach as per most Black Velvet routes, continuing on to Epinephrine. If climbing routes further up canyon than the Shuffle, one will need to access a long terrace 100' above the canyon floor. The following description (borrowed from the approach instructions for The Velveteen Rabbit) explains how to do this:

The east end of the terrace can be accessed by climbing the first (5.7) pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone which is an obvious wide crack in the unmistakeable left-facing corner just past Epinephrine. Once on the terrace, scramble west to your route of choice. Note: reversing this approach and rapping is the fastest way out at the end of the day.

An alternative and faster approach is by way of the far (west) end of this terrace: Continue in the wash for another five minutes past Epinephrine to the point where Corduroy Ridge splits the canyon into two forks. The south fork (left) is followed to access the Western Spaces Wall and the north fork (right) is followed to reach Sick for Toys. Scramble 60’ up the toe of Corduroy Ridge via an exposed and slippery 4th class rib of rock sandwiched between an occasionally wet slide to the left and a bolted slab to the right. Once on the level spot above (this is the very bottom of the south fork of BV Canyon) immediately turn left and scramble 30’ up a 5.0 chimney which deposits you at the west end of the same long terrace described previously. Pass underneath the start of Great Expectations and follow the terrace back to the start of your route.

Approach time is 40-45 minutes (10 minutes past Epinephrine).

17 Total Climbs

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Location: The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 10
Great Expectations
Trad 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 33
Twixt Cradle and Stone
Trad 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 28
Texanephrine
Trad 14 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 51
Velvet Revolver
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 34
Lone Star
Trad 21 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 6
Plein Air
Trad 8 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 102
Texas Hold 'Em
Trad 9 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 6
The Velveteen Rabbit
Trad 3 pitches
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 11
Ancient Futures
Trad 6 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 27
The Velvet Tongue
Trad 6 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 18
Texas Tower Direct
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Great Expectations
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Twixt Cradle and Stone
 33
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 8 pitches
Texanephrine
 28
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 14 pitches
Velvet Revolver
 51
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Lone Star
 34
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 21 pitches
Plein Air
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 8 pitches
Texas Hold 'Em
 102
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 9 pitches
The Velveteen Rabbit
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Ancient Futures
 11
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
The Velvet Tongue
 27
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad 6 pitches
Texas Tower Direct
 18
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall »

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