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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall

Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This wall is the continuation of the Black Velvet Wall past the Black Tower. It stretches west from Epinephrine to Great Expectations, at which point the wall bends southwards (following the South Fork of Black Velvet Canyon) and becomes the Western Spaces Wall.

Routes listed here are right of Epinephrine (beginning with Ancient Futures) and left of the Western Spaces Wall (concluding with Great Expectations).

Getting There

Approach as per most Black Velvet routes, continuing on to Epinephrine. If climbing routes further up canyon than the Shuffle, one will need to access a long terrace 100' above the canyon floor. The following description (borrowed from the approach instructions for The Velveteen Rabbit) explains how to do this:

The east end of the terrace can be accessed by climbing the first (5.7) pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone which is an obvious wide crack in the unmistakeable left-facing corner just past Epinephrine. Once on the terrace, scramble west to your route of choice. Note: reversing this approach and rapping is the fastest way out at the end of the day.

An alternative and faster approach is by way of the far (west) end of this terrace: Continue in the wash for another five minutes past Epinephrine to the point where Corduroy Ridge splits the canyon into two forks. The south fork (left) is followed to access the Western Spaces Wall and the north fork (right) is followed to reach Sick for Toys. Scramble 60’ up the toe of Corduroy Ridge via an exposed and slippery 4th class rib of rock sandwiched between an occasionally wet slide to the left and a bolted slab to the right. Once on the level spot above (this is the very bottom of the south fork of BV Canyon) immediately turn left and scramble 30’ up a 5.0 chimney which deposits you at the west end of the same long terrace described previously. Pass underneath the start of Great Expectations and follow the terrace back to the start of your route.

Approach time is 40-45 minutes (10 minutes past Epinephrine).

13 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Twixt Cradle and Stone
Trad 8 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Texanephrine
Trad 14 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 9
Velvet Revolver
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 21
Lone Star
Trad 21 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 5
Plein Air
Trad 8 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 48
Texas Hold 'Em
Trad 9 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Ancient Futures
Trad 6 pitches
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 14
The Velvet Tongue
Trad 6 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 10
Texas Tower Direct
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Twixt Cradle and Stone
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 8 pitches
Texanephrine
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 14 pitches
Velvet Revolver
 9
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Lone Star
 21
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 21 pitches
Plein Air
 5
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 8 pitches
Texas Hold 'Em
 48
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 9 pitches
Ancient Futures
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 6 pitches
The Velvet Tongue
 14
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad 6 pitches
Texas Tower Direct
 10
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall »

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