Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||882 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||George Daniel Urioste on Aug 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Pitch #0: Climb the 5.7 100 foot chimney (first pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone) in the left-facing corner, located about 100 feet upstream from the start of Epinephrine. Walk and scramble westward on the big ledge until you are standing under an impressive arch which is about 300 feet high.
Pitch #1: Begin climbing on ledges that traverse leftward and up to the left edge of the arch. A two bolt belay stance is found here. (5.6, 60 feet) Alternatively, one may climb straight up to this station (5.8, 60 feet)
Pitch #2: Jam or face climb within the chimney and offwidth to a bolted belay stance. (5.10, 100 feet)
Pitch #3: Climb squeeze chimney and offwidth to a bolted station with a foot stance.(5.9, 60 feet)
Pitch #4: Continue up the corner about 15 feet to a ledge which allows very delicate moves left (via 2 pro bolts). Go straight up exposed arête,surely butt puckering with crunchy holds and a couple pro bolts. From here follow either of two options: Option 1. step left onto unstable-looking diving board, use long slings to reduce drag, and launch onto the very steep face above. After a few moves up and left, pro is possible. In about 20-30 feet (up and left slightly), a bolted rap/belay station is reached. Option 2 goes to the right of option 1; climb right, along the edge of the arching roof (contrived but thrilling), exposed and frightening although it is well protected by bolts. After the overhanging arch levels, go straight up towards the big ledge which is the top of pitch #6. (5.9+, Option #1 75 feet, Option #2 140 feet)
Pitch #5: Go straight up the fragile crack to a large comfortable ledge with a bolted rap/belay station. (5.9 fragile, 65 feet)