Type: Trad, 450 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Ancient Pterodactyls
Page Views: 637 total · 17/month
Shared By: George Daniel Urioste on Aug 18, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

An arching corner system made of desert varnish. Rock quality is decent with some potato chips. Fun climb in all requiring jamming, crimping, chimney, and exploration.

Pitch #0: Climb the 5.7 100 foot chimney (first pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone) in the left-facing corner, located about 100 feet upstream from the start of Epinephrine. Walk and scramble westward on the big ledge until you are standing under an impressive arch which is about 300 feet high.

Pitch #1: Begin climbing on ledges that traverse leftward and up to the left edge of the arch. A two bolt belay stance is found here. (5.6, 60 feet) Alternatively, one may climb straight up to this station (5.8, 60 feet)

Pitch #2: Jam or face climb within the chimney and offwidth to a bolted belay stance. (5.10, 100 feet)

Pitch #3: Climb squeeze chimney and offwidth to a bolted station with a foot stance.(5.9, 60 feet)

Pitch #4: Continue up the corner about 15 feet to a ledge which allows very delicate moves left (via 2 pro bolts). Go straight up exposed arĂȘte,surely butt puckering with crunchy holds and a couple pro bolts. From here follow either of two options: Option 1. step left onto unstable-looking diving board, use long slings to reduce drag, and launch onto the very steep face above. After a few moves up and left, pro is possible. In about 20-30 feet (up and left slightly), a bolted rap/belay station is reached. Option 2 goes to the right of option 1; climb right, along the edge of the arching roof (contrived but thrilling), exposed and frightening although it is well protected by bolts. After the overhanging arch levels, go straight up towards the big ledge which is the top of pitch #6. (5.9+, Option #1 75 feet, Option #2 140 feet)

Pitch #5: Go straight up the fragile crack to a large comfortable ledge with a bolted rap/belay station. (5.9 fragile, 65 feet)

Location

Located on the Westside of Black Velvet on a wall called West Velvet Wall with many fun climbs including Velvet Revolver and Twixt. This climb requires a bit of a walk along ledges and starts off 100 feet upstream of the start of Epi. where you will find the obvious white sandstone chimney.

Protection

I used a double rack to #6 BD. Optional blue BB.
Friend got by on this one with little gear and did fine but I would not recommend this.
Bolted Anchors, bring two ropes to get down.

Photos