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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall

Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 981 total · 60/month
Shared By: Weston L on Sep 11, 2016
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a wonderful route with very moderate climbing for the grade. It features mostly great rock in great position. The pitches described here are the ones that most parties do (the first 8). The route does continue to the top of the velvet wall, but even after the crux the quality seems to deteriorate. We did not do the last two pitches, so only grades and Pitch length will be discussed here for those pitches.

P1 - 5.7, 90 ft. go up the obvious chimney feature 100' to the right of the start of Texas Hold Em, continue to a bolted belay.

Unrope. Scamper 200' to the right along the ledge in the clearing in the brush to the base of a gully. Rope back up.

P2 - 5.7, 80 ft. Go up the gulley, going slight left. Belay at bolts and chains.

P3 - 5.9, 100 ft. From the belay, go up and right past a bolt, and then climb a fun corner to a wonderful ledge with a bolted belay.

P4 - 5.7, 50 ft. Follow cracks up and left aiming for the base of the major chimney system, traversing low into it.

P5 - 5.10a, 160 ft. A fantastic and well varied pitch. Climb out and right passing several bolts into a chimney. Wiggle upward (not very grunty) placing gear as needed and then reaching more bolts. Move upward into a shallow right-facing corner system and enjoy varied climbimg and jamming to a bolted hanging belay. Awesome pitch, not so awesome belay stance,

P6 - 5.10d, 140 ft. Climb up following a corner up moderate terrain, eventually continuing up the face through a pleasant finger crack with face holds (hooray Red Rock). Once done enjoying awesome finger locks, traverse hard left (bolt) to a bolted belay on a small ledge.

P7 - 5.9, 140ft. (did not climb this pitch. If you have, I will happily add your description)

P8 - 5.9, 140 ft. (Did not climb this pitch. If you have, I will happily add your description)

From here you can either rap or continue up moderate terrain to the West summit of Black Velvet Peak/Velvet Wall.

Rappel the route (P8 or earlier) with two ropes. I would not advise linking the p2-p3 rap due to potential for stuck ropes.

Location

Far right side of velvet wall. Right of Texas Hold Em, the light colored chimney facing East is the start.

Protection

Two ropes, a dozen draws/slings, single rack below .3 camalot, doubles .3-3 camalot, single 4
Mei
  5.10c
Mei  
  5.10c
This route deserves more visits. The climbing is good, and you can see the conga lines on all the popular routes to the left and hear people pretty much the whole time while on this part of the (deserted) wall. I'd say p5 is shorter than 120' judging by the tails from our rappel using an 80 m rope. We linked 2&3 as well as 4&5. Watch for rope drag on 5 as clips alternate between crack (left) and bolts (right). Nov 10, 2017
Rprops
North Las Vegas
 
Rprops   North Las Vegas
 
Rapped perfectly from pitch 8 with an 80m rope. Came right to the ends on the 2nd rap. Nov 9, 2017
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10d
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10d
Fun route. We combined pitches 2/3 and 4/5 to limit hanging belay time (we had twin 60 meter ropes and were able to combine these pitches. The 7th pitch moves right of the belay into a thin crack in a left facing corner - tricky pro from tiny cams to flared 3 inch placement. After the corner drift up and slightly rightwards until below the belay, then climb back up left to the chains. The 8th pitch goes up and slightly right past some small roofs then drifts back up and leftwards on easier terrain. Jun 18, 2017
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
This route is easily rapped with a 70. We had to do a little down climb on an easy ramp on the second rappel, but you could avoid this with simple shenanigans. Mar 28, 2017
Chad Laflamme
North Conway, NH
Chad Laflamme   North Conway, NH
I climbed this to the top 11/26/16. Fun route but I don't recommend topping it out. After pitch 9 the rock quality drops dramatically, protection is sparse, and route finding is a bit tricky. The top pitches are easy but I had many large foot ledges bust loose while standing on them; several close calls for the climber and belayer. Memorable adventure. Nov 27, 2016