Type: Trad, 6 pitches
FA: Jorge and Joanne Urioste
Page Views: 1,126 total · 10/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Mar 5, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1 goes out the obvious diagonaling "ledge" to the right. You'll see a bolt a little way out, and you're aiming for the obvious crack in a left facing dihedral. Pass the first anchor you come to and belay at the top of the pillar on a nice ledge, 5.7.
Pitch 2 traverse's out left past a bolt then continue's left until you can see another bolt above you (the traverse is about 25-30ft) follow bolts up the face to a bolted anchor, 5.8.
Pitch 3 continue upward following more bolts to another bolt anchor, 5.8.
Pitch 4 go left from the belay to gain a crack follow the crack unti, it ends then pass more bolts leading to the anchor, 5.9.
Pitch 5 go right off the belay, clip a bolt, then head up into the obvious corner above follow this corner system until you reach belay bolts in a cave, 5.9+.
Pitch 6 start out by continueing up the corner. Shortly you will clip bolts on the face to the right and then follow the bolts out onto the face. Belay at a good ledge from bolts, 5.9+.

Rappel the route with 2 ropes...a single 70M might get you down.

Location

Hike up canyon past Epinephrine.When you reach the fork in the canyon go up the slab that leads to the south fork. There is sometimes a fixed line here, and there is a short bolted climb as well. From the ledge on top of the slab go left and up a short 4th class chimney.

Protection

Bring a Standard rack, including RP's.
All of the anchor bolts on this climb a very good, however the protection bolts are old quarter inchers, beware.

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